Travel Magic - Independent World

Best Wishes for 2012

2011-12-09T01:22:00.000-08:00

Best Wishes for 2011

2010-12-23T05:41:00.000-08:00

A way to Tramtaria Land - Book (ebook)

2010-01-01T01:01:00.000-08:00

Book by Zdenek M-an (myself) - online edition, English version.

Zdenek M-an is an intrepid traveller, adventurer and photographer whose main passion is “the world beyond”. He loves to soak up the atmosphere around him in its natural and informal way, while he is leisurely sipping good tea. And his tea selection he travels with is truly amusing. He had seen lots of Europe, fell in love with the Middle East and adored the Himalayas on his endless adventures through the Asia. His visions, attitude and wry sense of humour are well reflected in his photography. A way to 'Tramtaria Land' is his first book project, where he expressed the best of his endless journeys with a focus on the last trip, which took almost 4 years.

There are many things I could say about this book. For sure: .....

it is a "serious travel dreams teaser" - Travel & Photo book with a 'witty' stories, mental snapshots, "worthy" ideology. With sections on Himalayas + Tibet, China, Sumatra, Australia and New Zealand...

'A way to Tramtaria Land'
by Zdenek M-an

Language: English, Pages: 192,
Format: PDF file, Size: 29MB,
Availability: Digital Download

It's available for direct purchase
via the secure server here:

Price: 10 EUR

or you can find it online at:

www.Tramtaria.co.cc

more info, e-shop, book
sample,download information.

Featuring many stunning images from Pakistan, Ladakh, Kashmir, Tibet, China, India, Sumatra, Australia, New Zealand, South Asia, ...

=========================================================

Photographs, texts, book & cover design - by 'Z' M-an and TMStudio

=========================================================

Best Wishes for 2010

2009-12-23T04:48:00.000-08:00

Poland - Ustron (Visla, ...)

2009-10-17T16:01:00.000-07:00

Ustron - charming bathing town with a long tradition in spa treatment and rehabilitation. Situated in the valleys of Polish part of the Silesian Beskid (Slezske Beskydy), surrounded by Rownica (884m) and Czantoria Wielka (995m) on the other side. Area futures well posted walks, beautiful views from the peaks and also big aqua park in the nearby town of Wisla.

Peak Rownica is one the the most visited with an easy driving access to a high altitude (around 800m) car park. Most of the lazy visitors take a short walk to a nearby and famous 'Bandits Restaurant'. Great views and good food. Local specialty is a warm beer (kinda beer grog) and fantastic sup served in the small bread loaf hollowed out and filled with the sup. "Eat your plate if you are still hungry :)"

You can also hike all the way from the Ustron (around 1h). Wide footpath is passing through a historical pilgrims place, where there are religious ceremonies being held on the special occasions. Further up behind Rownica your effort will be rewarded by stunning views on the mountains around.

World is watching

2009-10-09T14:11:00.000-07:00

Readers of the Travel Magic's blog come from a various places in the world. I am pleasantly surprised and would like to say 'Big Thanks' to all.

It's been 108 countries on my map since the blogs creation couple years ago. Still a few missing though, so keep up the good work.

And hey, who is living in Greenland?!? I wonder if the polar bears like to read about future holiday options in the New Zealand or give up eating meat and become spiritually devoted in some remote Buddhist monastery in Himalayas. Guess, I will have to find out myself one day.

* Places in White are still waiting ;) * Big Thanks to all readers. For more visit: www.travelmagic.co.cc

Travel Magic Home

2009-10-09T14:10:00.000-07:00

Travel Magic presents - * New Travel Magic Home * click picture

Malaysia 09 - Kuala Lumpur

2009-07-06T15:58:00.000-07:00

Short stop in the Malay capital Kuala Lumpur, before jumping on a long haul flight towards the Europe. London Stansted is my quick destination and after a short sleep on the floor, there is another plane waiting. Hello Praha (Prague), here I come ...!

Kuala Lumpur

This metropolitan city feels fantastic to me. Mix of the cultures, smiley faces .... a lot of things I've been a bit missing in China past few weeks. And of course, on the way from the airport I have stumbled upon the awesome Indian restaurant, just next to the skyline. There was no question about having mixed plate of all I found and of course Malay style milk tea.

China - South (Guilin, Yangshuo, Nanning, ...)

2009-06-12T14:22:00.000-07:00

And here I am back in the southern China after crossing the border from Vietnam and arriving to Nanning.

Guilin, Yangshuo and surroundings are one of the very popular destination for foreigners as well as Chinese. With the travel boom for Chinese within their own country, Yangshuo had become one of the major destination.

More articles on China here: - "CHINA - South/East (Chengdu, Kunming, Emei Shan)"

Vietnam 09 - Hanoi, Halong Bay, Mai Chao, ...

2009-05-17T23:35:00.000-07:00

Back to the Vietnam - a country of mixed varieties, Communism, fantastic coffee, yummy food. Hated by some and loved by others. It's interesting, there is not much of the center/neutral approach to it. Visitors either love it here, it's people, services, sites, ... or hate it. Those who hate it, always say, they feel extremely harassed and people not being friendly to them. I wonder .... Well, I love it and the coffee .... achhh.

VIETNAM VISA ONLINE: "Vietnam E-Visa" link

You need to get a visa before you enter the country, but this time I have discovered a possibility of getting them online. So convenient and cheap too. You pay $20 for a service and then you pay on the arrival for the visas you recquire. In my case 1 month/single entry - $25USD. The way to get it online is to visit - "Vietnam E-Visa" - and follow the instructions. There are several ways to pay, including the visa card. Once it's processed (usually 24 hours) you get by email a copy of letter (.jpg format - like picture), which contains your name and further details. This you print and present to immigration on arrival. All easy. Though, it's just for the arrival by flight to Hanoi and Saigon I think.

More articles on Vietnam here: - "Vietnam travel 2007

Indonesia 09

2009-04-19T23:30:00.000-07:00

... flying to Medan in the North/West part of the Sumatra island. I have just about a month for visit and I am not going to try to see everything. In fact I have all this time just for North and West Sumatra, flying out of Padang later on.

Medan
One of the main entry points to Sumatra. You can get a visa on arrival here, come by boat from Penang Island (from Malasia) or catch a flight from a few major Asia hubs.

TAKEGNON

PULAU WEH

DANAU TOBA (lake Toba)

BUKIT LAWANG

BERASTAGI (volcano)

Singapore 09

2009-04-17T23:27:00.000-07:00

Back to the familiar place. Singapore is an easy travel hub. Hot and humid, yes, but with a great food and places to hide for a few days. Hop on the MRT (public transport) from the airport and for $1.60 it always gets me to a Little India, where I base myself. Recently a lot more new hostel/backpacker places had opened up, finally discovering the potential and creating a bit more competition. So, for me some good Indian food, many Massala Chai glasses and of course catching up with Tang-Li over a cup of tea and Shisha in the Arabic quarter. A bit of recap on memories from two years ago, when I was leaving for the New Zealand. Wow, how fast the time goes. A year goes past before you know it and then another .... Well, will be back in a month on the way from Indonesia and possibly many other times in the future.

More articles on Singapore here: - "Singapore 07

Australia (Sydney, Melbourne, Cairns, Darwin, ...)

2009-03-17T13:55:00.000-07:00

Back on the road and ready for new adventures. After living 2 year in the New Zealand - the country of the ‘Long White Cloud’ I am leaving for Australia. My visit here is going to be shortish. Just a month, before I catch a plane to Singapore.

Australia, is a country of size of the Europe and yet another one from the old British Empire. Well known by its colours, poisonous animals, jumpy kangaroos, cuddly koalas and big red rock called Uluru. Sometimes resonating by the sounds of Didgeridoos played by the native Aboriginal tribes. The native inhabitants are also famous by their surviving skill in the hostile conditions of the desert, hunting with boomerangs (open U shaped piece of wood thrown in specific way, so it can return to it’s master, when target is missed) and dotted art often composed on their bodies or rocks.

Sydney

One of the most famous images is the Sydney Opera House. It’s spectacular architecture, glaring in the night into the open sea makes one of the cities dominant. Though for most of the Aussies is the Harbour Bridge the main symbol of Australia. It’s truly amazing to watch the big cruise ships passing under it or being docket in the Darling Harbour. They are of size of a several buildings and while passing under Harbour Bridge, you just have to wonder, if it will fit.

Blue Mountains - Katoomba and surroundings

Got their name from the cloudy haze lazily rolling above the bush most of the mornings. With the colour of the eucalyptus (in Oz so called Gum trees) trees they create bluish mist. Views from the Katoomba are fantastic. No wonder it’s sometimes referred as to a Grand Canyon. Steep carved cliffs and deep valleys covered by bush. Just a big river is missing.

Melbourne

Is busy, buzzing city, with many restaurants, compact centre, big parks and many historically looking churches. It has very mixed, almost spicy feel, which compared to quite uniformed Sydney is something I would be expecting more from Europe. To me it’s certainly the closest reminder of the old continent in the whole Australia/New Zealnd area.

Great Ocean Road

Beautiful views, big waves, plenty of sand, cliffs, sunsets and small sea towns compacted in about 300km. The easiest way is to hire a car from Geelong (if you are on short time schedule) - where you can get on the train from central Melbourne ($6.40 one way). There is lots of bush around the road as well and you can visit National Parks for bush walks and camping. If you pay attention to your surroundings, you will get to see lots of wildlife. I was lucky to spot several wallabies (similar to kangaroo), parrots, one small snake (most likely deadly poisonous) and many koalas. It’s been such a marvel and surprise to find koala in the wild. There was a forest, where there was a koala on almost every second tree. Bit of exaggeration, though I saw about 30 koalas in the space of some 8 km and took me driving/photohunting almost 4 hours. Talking to an active bushwalking friend in Melbourne, I was told that’s a lot of koalas to see. She apparently saw about 6 wild one in all here life. Wow.

Rockhampton + Emu Holiday Par

"Rocky" is considered as on of the traditional local places in Australia, where nothing much is happening. Famous by it's cattle and nearby Saphire mines. By nearby I mean distances in the local view, so some 2-3 hours drive inland. As one of my friends said: 'nothing to hold you there, get the hell out of there as soon as you can.' Well, I found it quite relaxing place, really local almost pure and full of friendly people. As opose to Mackay, a very boring place I would never want to end up again!

A few days at leisure at Emu Holiday Park, which is a place down the sea shore, about a half an hour drive from Rocky. It could be reached by the local bus through the Yeppon, but it takes almost 1.5 hours instead. That's because the bus goes around the whole coast. Price is great $5.60 for the whole ride though. There is a backpacker place (the only one outside Rocky), with a swimming pool. Good place, great owners. There are an easy walks around if you are interested and it's a good base for the trip to W.... Island. You can catch a ferry from the nearby village and it returns back in the evening. You can also organize it as full day trip by some of the travel agencies. I was stoked to see lots of birds here: lorekeets, kakarikee, parrots and I even saw 3 black Cockatoos flying around. That's apparently great to see them in the wild.

Cairns + Kuranda

One of the main places on the travelers route through the Australia. Lots of shops, cafes, bars, night life and also a gateway to Great Barrier Reef for diving, snorkeling. There are several islands around you can visit and endless companies offering tours around. If you are not into the diving, you can have a swim in the city's lagoon, which provides excellent alternative to a safe swim as opose to a sea full of harmful creatures. Also the beach in Cairns is rather muddy shore, than a beautiful sandy beach. Many backpackers has a good swimming pool, where you can relax all day long. (like the Gecko's near the train station). Also walk in the botanical gardens and in the park behind gives you a good alternative of visiting the local rain forest. City itself is surrounded by hills with a few towns hidden in them. One of the most famous is called Kuranda. It's a town situated in the hills above the Cairns. After 5pm it becomes almost a ghost town, when all the day tripping tourists disappear and shops, cafes close. Only a few people stay over the night. The main attractions would be walks in the forest, Barron Falls, shopping, scenic railway and skyline. I saw lots of butterflies around and a few big spiders. For those, who are used the trains (like from Europe), the railway will not appear nothing special, but rather pricey. But for others it's a great adventure. You have to consider how few trains are there around. If you just want to visit a place and wonder around, but not going crazy over the attractions, get a local bus ($4) from the center of town.

Darwin -

Was hot and humid when I arrived. Busy place, full of tourist. I was slightly surprised how big travel hub Darwin actually is. It is easy to get a cheap flights from Darwin to Asia (especially Singapore, Bangkok, Bali), but you pay a lot more to get to the city itself. Though, for those heading to Australia's outback (places like Brome), passing through the central to Ayers Rock or visiting the Kakadu National Park (listed in Unesco Heritage list) is Darwin a great gateway. It has all the facilities you need. You can get a car here, organize tours, find a work or party like a crazy. Kakadu National Park protect something like 20.000 ha of bush, full of wildlife and some of the most famous Aboriginal rock art sites. There are a few mining town around, which nowadays create your entry points for the park. It's easy to get an one day or overnight tour from Darwin, if your time is limited. You can also easily organize your own transport and explore it yourself. As my time here was limited I have resisted the temptation of spending a half day on the bus while going on the day trip to Kakadu. Well, maybe another time. I have tasted Australia and discovered its potential. Next time I am going to drive around to see it a lot better.

I have enjoyed walking around the sea, watching a groups of indigenous people chatting and drinking in the parks or trying to play didgeridoo (very badly) on the street to rise some money. Sometimes they surprised me, with their creativity, when one older guy took two sticks, sat down and started to bang them together. While creating this monotonous noise, he has started to sing some vocals into it. Though all of his concentration went towards passers by, to get some contribution rather then to the performance itself. Generally, it's rather a sad look to see the native inhabitants in Darwin. My recommendation in Darwin is to visit the botanical gardens (with good selection of plants) and connect it with the coastal walk for the views and beach.

Kite surfing - Queenstown - New Zealand

2009-01-28T04:53:00.000-08:00

Kite surfing on the lake with the storm sounds in the background and heavy dark clouds slowly passing above the country. Somewhere between Queenstown and Glenorky a few water 'masters' jumps on their adrenaline plane and make their way into the wild big waves. Kite surfing and windsurfing are both flying across the surface and strong wind helps speed up for jumps on splashing waves ....

Kite surfing on the stormy lake video - New Zealand

TMStudio production

When the weather makes many people believe, it's time to stay put behind the closed doors of their homes, the real New Zealanders (Kiwis) smile. "It's the best time to get out and play," they say. How else would you get such a perfect condition for our adrenaline 'hobbies'?

Ironman - Wanaka Challenge 09 - New Zealand

2009-01-17T06:26:00.000-08:00

Adrenaline is pumping since the early morning in a spectacular town of Wanaka. Low clouds and light rain creates heavy and mystical atmosphere for the beginning of a race. Yes, the Challenge Wanaka is happening again. Iron athletes are getting ready for a swim and 400 volunteers are looking after them. Many spectators and supporters are shivering on the lake bank and waiting for the horn to start the "madness" - 8:37:41 minutes of hard physical and mental challenge to win (well done Chris!!!, beating the record and setting new borders for next year), to complete, to be there .... Everyone is cheered for, everyone is supported.

Results from the Challenge Wanaka 2009 for the first three:

MEN:

1. Place - Chris McDonald (Aussie)
2. Place - Keegan Williams (Kiwi)
3. Place - Petr Vabrousek (Czech)

WOMEN:

1. Place - Gina Ferguson
2. Place - Merryn Johnston
3. Place - Hillary Biscay

For more info and life results please visit: 'Challenge Wanaka'

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Some images from the Wanaka Challenge 09 to preview at: ‘Event Photo Gallery’

Yet another fantastic event, where the men kind

is trying to breach the limits. If you don't feel like

being one of them, don't worry!

Come and support with your cheers anyway :)

Twilight Rodeo - Wanaka - New Zealand

2009-01-02T06:57:00.000-08:00

Rodeo in Wanaka is an annual event and its been performed 43 times since its establishment in 1963. Main Rodeo is usually held in the beginning of January, but in the last years they have added an second shorter option of Twilight Rodeo to satisfy all the fans.

Event was well organized and sunny weather was helping to establish relaxed feel full of adrenaline excitement of the skilled riders, angry bulls and beautiful horses. Short break in the program were filled by a witty jokes and small show of the local rodeo clown 'Festise'. He earned well deserved "love" from the kids with a bucket full of sweets.

The Wanaka Rodeo is part of the South Island Christmas circuit comprising of five rodeos, while there is a similar circuit being run in the North Island over the same period. Wanaka offers very valuable poings that competitors keenly seek as they chase the various national titles.

Twilight Rodeo - schedule for the event watch:

1. 2nd Division Bull Ride

2. 2nd Division Rope & Tie

3. 2nd Division Barrel Race

4. Junior Barrel Race

5. GRAND ENTRY : 5pm

6. Open Bull Ride - 1st Split

7. Open Bareback

8. Open Rope & Tie

9. Open Saddle Bronc - 1st Split

10. Open Barrel Race

11. Open Team Roping

12. Open Saddle Bronc - 2nd Split

13. Open Steer Wrestling

14. Open Bull Ride - 2nd Split

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For more info please visit organizers at: 'Wanaka Rodeo'

Wild horse ride rodeo - Wanaka - New Zealand

Best Wishes for 2009

2008-12-17T14:23:00.000-08:00

It's the Christmas time again and year 2009 is knocking on the door .....

I wish you tuns of fun and plentiful of joyful time.
Adventurous, snowy, barbie on the beach .....
where ever you are, have a splendid one!

Once again from the country of the Long White Cloud, where
goblins forge a mitril suits, elfs are dancing in the mossy forests
and gate of Mordor is open to adventurous minds ......

Mitre Peak Ascent - Fjordlands National Park (New Zealand)

2008-12-12T07:03:00.000-08:00

Mitre Peak is one of the most photographed dominant of the New Zealand. It can be found in the Fjordlands National Park on the South Island. You can enjoy its stunning views when you arrive to Milford sound. Its amusing structure and central position makes it unforgettable scenic point situated in the middle of the fjord. The best to be enjoyed from the Milford Sound Cruise, Helli flight or the climb on the peak itself. Last and the most memorable option is not for a faint hearted. Once you manage to cross the sound to its base (kayak was our choice) the real adventure starts. There is no trek to take you up and after a few hours of steep climb up and on the bushy edge you finally get to peak itself. Climb is only getting steeper and once you cross above the tree line it offers absolutely unreal view on surrounding mountains. Steep edges and massive side drops keeps your concentration 100% on the ascent.

view on the main peak from the opposite saddle crossing

To be continued ......

Seven Miles - local joy for mountain bikers - Queenstown

2008-12-01T07:11:00.000-08:00

Seven Miles biking

mountain bike trails

All eleven trails here are situated in the most beautiful location starting on the Wakatipu lake about 10 km from the Queenstown towards Glenorky. The easiest access is from the Wilson Bay car park, which is just by the road on the lake front. Most of the trails are under the blanket of pine forest. Even if the weather gets a bit rough and wind blows strongly on the open planes, you will have enjoyable ride here.

There are several older trails running through the dense trees, with fast switchbacks, steep downhill, technical rocks. New trails are usually wider, with build in dirt jumps and lot of woodwork. They are ready for the beginner or advanced rider. Up to you to push your limits….

The main place and meeting point is ‘The Hub’, situated just about the middle of everything. You have an easy direct and indirect access to all the trails from here and while waiting for your mates to come you can practise your riding skills on logs and other woodwork. Shorter trail loop starting from here called ‘Cool Runnings’ is a great warm up. Grin and Holler II will offer downhill fun on the way back to lake. Or choose a bit more paddling uphill and join the ‘Kachoong’ with some woodwork at the beginning followed by downhill and several good jumps.

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Some of the trail names do already pump up your imagination.

Like those of ‘El Dorado’ or ‘Bliss & Cloudburst’.

For more info/local knowledge/quick bike fix or just a trail map

pay a visit to ‘Dr. Bike’ at Outside Sports
(the home of biking beast)

Kolobezka - mountain trips on wheels
.

Avalanche dogs training - The Remarkables (New Zealand)

2008-08-07T07:33:00.000-07:00

Avalanche dog training is very serious thing to do. It takes lots of effort, but brings plenty of fun too. Like a digging snow holes or being buried under the snow and hope, the dog will find you and find you soooooon ....

dog had discovered volunteer hidden 1.5m deep in the snow hole

another snow hole ready to be closed behind volunteer

rescue duo with 'Double Cone'

in the background - The Remarkables

patrolling through the snow fields

Pictures from the selection for articles in the 'Mountain Scene'

a local Queenstown based newspaper and 'Wilderness Magazine'.

Location: The Remarkables - mountains near Queenstown, edging the Wakatipu lake

OutdoorsNZ - local life in pictures from Oueenstown

2008-07-29T19:44:00.000-07:00

Since I have decided to prolong my stay in the New Zealand and spend more time in the adrenaline centre of Queenstown, I have created other projects to display my photos from the local life. One of them is called “OutdoorsNZ”. It brings some visuals from the local activities I have enjoyed. It is kind of an outdoor activities guide, with info and visuals from the local biking, skiing, races, marathons as well as outdoor fun-time by the local enthusiasts. I use this kind of projects to learn new things and find a place for more themed picture display. If you are interested to see more on the happenings around Queenstown, follow the link bellow:

"OutdoorsNZ-active life-New Zeland"

Here is a bit of 80s from the local retro ski party. Beautiful collection of crafty dresses, old equipment, “shot-ski” (devilish drinking device) and lots of dance determination overlooking local mountains (almost from this high) made it a great night out. View on the Queenstown and its lake Wakatipu from Remarkables the caricature like mountain range.

One of the few downsides on living life in the middle of outdoors is luck of the art scene. In that aspect, Queenstown is highly undeveloped and main attractions of the art-folk are hidden in the tourist shops, next to the sheepskin slippers, toys of kiwi bird and carvings from the greenstone. Occasional concerts usually hike up their price to make it affordable only for real enthusiasts from the normal working sphere.

Local art - early morning - Christchurch

"Bikes on the snow" - race - Coronet Peak - Queenstown

2008-07-10T07:53:00.000-07:00

"Bikes on the Snow"
winter 'craze' race 08
take place as a part of the Winter Festival and bring lots of fun for every one in the snowy environment, where all the skills come to place. Race on the snow is a great day out for many entrants. They are having fun on their beloved bikes, while testing their proficiency on a slippery surface. Everyone is enjoying this rare opportunity to be allowed take the bike on the ski slope and speed up down the hill next to the skiers and boarders.

This years’ race was particularly hard work. As the weather Gods had refused to cooperate and also slushy snow was not promising too much show on the jumps. That would not stop the racers from giving their best and off they went rocking and rolling down the hill. And just about the time to start all the crew had disappeared in the clouds of fog full of snow and sharp wind. This weather had been lasting pretty much for most of the race and just about the final loops the clouds had lifted slightly and showed patchy blue sky to appraise endurance of the remaining races.

Despite the bad weather and the slow motion on the track, it had been an interesting event to watch and certainly well remembered one to all participants.

Enjoy the visuals and as always any images can be obtained in high specs on request.

Lot more picks to check out are in the event album: “Bikes on the Snow 08”

... for outdoor adventure madness is no better place then the New Zealand

First Skiing 08 - Coronet Peak - New Zealand

2008-05-29T09:02:00.000-07:00

And the winter season 2008 is open!

New Zealand peaks are gleaming in the sun and everybody enjoys the beautiful views of the snow capped mountains. Heavy snowfalls at the end of May had created ideal conditions for the first ski/snowboard enthusiasts. Plenty of powder on the Coronet Peak (Queenstown) and partly groomed slopes had made perfect conditions for the first piste/off-piste skiing and snowboarding. Although the regular skiers will have to wait for the lifts to open, local enthusiasts have their skins and snow shoes ready.

And believe me, skiing down on the empty slopes after the good workout on the way up is just unreal. Check out the pick to see it ....

NEW ZEALAND 08 - trapped in Queenstown

2008-04-29T02:01:00.000-07:00

New Zealand ME baby! Is it difficult to become a Kiwi? Yes and No. New Zealand used to be lot more open to immigration compared to its approach past few years. Even though, it is not as easy to stay here any more, the country is still looking for skilled migrants and its population, especially on the South Island is not huge. One of the easiest places for finding a seasonal job is certainly outdoor adventure “fun park” town Queenstown. It has pretty much zero unemployment rates and is most of the time looking for people to work in hospitality. Though, it could be rather difficult to find a job, if you come in the middle of the winter season. The competition is strong and there are many people enjoying the snow and doing just about anything to support themselves while spending the rest of the time on the slopes. There is also big demand for agriculture workers on the orchards, vineyards and animal farms. Government latest approach is trying to bring workforce from the islands and also from Asia. Creating centralized re-distribution of the workers to fill the requirements. Let’s see, what it will bring in the future, but so far I have not heard many positive opinions from the farmers or local communities.

I’ve been living in Queenstown for a while now. And I have to say, summer here is great. There are so many things to do, if you are into the outdoors. I have dedicated my time here (apart from the work of course) to tramping, mountaineering, mountain biking, ….. basically exploring the local nature and taking picks of it. Of course, there is a great community of people leaving around and I am lucky to spend time with them too.

Brake Burner 2008 - Coronet Peak (New Zealand, Queenstown)

2008-02-02T08:39:00.000-08:00

Brake Burner 2008

m-bike endurance race

Six hours of endurance mountain bike race. Chairlift up and single track down. That's lot of adrenaline, fun, mental challenge and great atmosphere in a single blog of 6 hours of the down hill racing. Check out some self explanatory visuals - quick photo preview from the race.

Lots more pictures to see: Brake Burner 2008 Photo Album

Info from organizers about the race at: www.brakeburner.co.nz

there is always time to play!

jumpy fast downhill before the lift base

from the lift - The Remarkables, Wakatipu lake, ... background

Kolobezka - mountain trips with wheels
.

BEST WISHES FOR 2008

2008-01-01T13:35:00.000-08:00

Another year has passed and I am still enjoying being on the road. The beginning of the 2008 had caught me in the New Zealand, one of the countries, where the time almost begins. So I got to celebrate the New Year as one of the first people in the world. Of course forgetting about the Polynesian Islands and other four million people living in the New Zealand. With my friend Jerry, we had made it in the sight of the highest mountain of the New Zealand called Mt. Cook and for the New Year we trekked up the route called “Ball Pass Crossing”. It is passing one of the access ridges for the Mt. Cook itself in about 2.000m. For Jerry it was first time to cross 2.000m altitude mark and we both enjoyed spectacular views of the mountain with a blue sky and superb weather.

All the best to all of you, who keep on reading my travel mishmash and my regards from the country of Long White Cloud and lots of good light in the New Year 2008.

Jerry's fiddle-faddle

2008-01-01T07:02:00.000-08:00

Jerry's trip around the New Zealand (click the picture to enter)

"Jerry's Fiddle-Faddle"

Contact juggling in the Chinese Buddhist temple

2007-11-28T16:24:00.000-08:00

Contact juggling with a crystal ball - performance

Contact juggling in the Chinese Buddhist temple.

Street arts performance with a crystal ball in the exotic surroundings.

Perfect place for a nice girl to perform her show.

Contact Juggling, Huating Temple

HUATING MOUNTAIN (Western Hills - Kunming) is visited by many locals but fortunately escaped the western tourist hit. Entry to the Huating mountain park is still free and you can visit its temples for a symbolical price of 5 Juan. Same price as the local people pay. I love this area very much. You can find there one of the most spectacular views on Kunming city situated on the other side of the lake and there is also a smaller stone forest in the on the top of the mountain and surrounding hills. You can simply wonder in between the rocks and enjoy anonymous spots with romantic views. Lots of people come there with friends, play games and have picnics. Great day out of the city. Easily reachable by a local bus or you can cycle there as I did. My best recommendations are to cycle in and then stay for a night in the local “villa hotel”, while exploring the surrounding. Out of season you can get generous discount.

Huating Temple, Western Mountains

A short history about Huating Temple a very beautiful place: “Huating is named after the Huating Peak of Green Cock Mountain which belongs to the West Mountains near Kunming. The original location of the temple was the villa of a Dali nobleman of Song Dynasty 1453. In 1920, Master Xuyun, a very famous old Buddhist monk, who had been in Zhusheng Temple at Jizu Mountains, was invited by the Provincial Governor Tang Jiyao to take the position of Abbot of Huating Temple. Before the coming of Xuyun, the temple had been so poorly managed as to almost lie waste and was to be sold to some foreigners to open clubs, which had been approved by the local government. Xuyun was deeply disturbed and seriously worried about the future of the temple and he asked Governor Tang to prevent the illegal transaction in time. The main cultural relics kept in Huating Temple are 2 jade Buddha statues presented by Burman Buddhists, a gold-plating Buddha statue presented by Thai Buddhists, a copper statue of the Zhunti Buddhist with 3 eyes and 18 arms stored in the Abbot room, Buddhist Shrine of Master Xuyun, the steles cared with Lin Zexu’s (a famous poet and official of Qing Dynasty) and Guo Muoruo’s (a famous temporary writer and poet) poems.”

TMStudio: Photo - Graphic Design - SEO - Development

2007-07-26T10:30:00.000-07:00

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NEW ZEALAND 07 - Arrival

2007-03-23T22:10:00.000-07:00

Here I go. I am in the New Zealand now. Finishing my long holiday in the Himalayas I am finally arriving to Auckland airport. I am about to completely change the scenery and once again join the English speaking culture for a while. To work and life in this beautiful country, where “The Lord of the Rings” was filmed and where the nature is like in the fairy tales.

Wai-O-Tapu Thermal Park

“Hey Bro, how’s going? How much to get to town from the airport? Serious, $20?! How far? Around 20km did you say? Hmmm, for that money I am use to eat, sleep and see something for two days straight through. Thanks anyway. I will have to get use to it now, ahhhhhh ….” But $20. Didn’t Paul say it is so easy to hitch around the country?

And so I have got some maps from the local info center and started to talk to a courier in front of the Departure hall. This lovely Maori woman was on the job to deliver some flowers and she had offered to take me downtown, if I am in no hurry. Of course I am in no hurry. Leaving me near my friends house later on, she had left me with here phone number to call if I need anything. She has told me a lot about here family and children and how the people from cities see the countryside. What a great welcome. And so my experience with the people here continues. Looks like the New Zealand is full of nice people. They like to talk and are very helpful. I am sure, it is also my approach. Well, from a travelling I am just about to smile at everyone and talk to any stranger whenever I need something. Some people are born like this, but for me it is always a push to be so much of an extrovert.

After my arrival in the New Zealand, I was planning to use my working holiday visas and stay in the country for a while to get a proper feel for it, get to know the culture and also earn some money to support myself for a further travelling. Soon I have realized, that to earn enough money here will be hard, as the earnings are very low and spendings high. The New Zealand is nice and relaxed country to live in on one hand, but also very isolated place from the rest of the world. For me being used to the international variety it’s been rather a big change. I have decided to work in Auckland and stay with my friends at the beginning, which was very good experience. Auckland itself is not really heart breaking city, but rather a big (80km long) village to me. Massive traffic and luck of the city transport makes it an adventure to commute to work everyday and some 10 km could take up easily an hour. I have ended up working a long hours and the rest of my time exploring cities harbour, beaches and surrounding hills and meeting with my friends for a water pipe in local Turkish restaurant. Time had passed fast and before I knew it, the spring had come to the New Zealand. So one day I left to see the country from its “top to toes”. Having done the Cape Rainga and most of the Northlands previously I have set off for the Coromandel Peninsula - one of the most beautiful places, before slowly progressing to the South Island, where I was going to meet my friend. I know Jerry from the London and he was going to share some of the travel adventures with me. It happened, we managed to get along reasonably well and in the end we spent almost four months travelling down the West Coast together.

Of Course “To be continued…….”

SINGAPORE 07

2007-03-21T22:27:00.000-07:00

Window display - ("Tea break is temporary, extinction is forever!")

Good Bye Asia, I am going to miss you. I will come back again one day as you are deeply rooted in my heart. Spending more then eleven months around Asia, travelling through the Himalayas by foot, on bicycle, local buses, army trucks, hitching, flying across the endless horizon of the mountains and descending to country of tea, Taichi and pandas. Leaving those old cultures for a primitive tribes in rain forest, visiting memorials of the Vietnam war, riding a boat on Mekong river and getting some suntan on the sandy beaches of the South East Asia. Yes, I made it to Singapore to catch my plane out of the Asian continent and transfer myself thousands kilometers away to the country of Long White Cloud, where no mammals used to live and native inhabitants eat each other.

More articles on Singapore here: - "Singapore 09

MALAYSIA 07 - Penang Island

2007-03-03T14:31:00.000-08:00

15th day of Chinese New Year - Penang

Malaysia rock! After Thailand I found the Penang Island and the city of George Town very interesting. George Town has many old buildings in the colonial architecture and as I learned today the biggest Chinese population in Malaysia. And so the 15th day of Chinese New Year celebration went on with huge incense sticks, many people praying, ... Really authentic atmosphere.

Fabulous door - Penang, Malaysia

Resting men - Penang, Malaysia

THAILAND - Bangkog, Krabi, ...

2007-02-17T12:56:00.000-08:00

Rich country of Thailand and Bangkok - the crazy tourist hang out. It is really big change to see so many 'white faces'. Also the year of Pig (2550 - Chinese calendar) had come, but the celebrations sucked in Bangkok.

2550 - Year of Pig - Chinese calendar

Bangkok - river transport - Thailand

CAMBODIA - Angkor Wat, Ratanakiri, Phnom Penh, Siem Reap, ...

2007-02-09T11:27:00.000-08:00

jungle wildlife - Ratanakiri province

One of the poorest countries in the world?! That how the economic definition goes. The country itself is almost like two worlds. A beautiful undeveloped Ratnakiri province (near Vietnam and Laos borders) with deep jungle, tribal people and still a few tourists. And then Siem Riep, where the famous Angkor temple is found. Overpriced and extremely touristy, where I felt like supporting the whole economy of the country.

Angkor Temples - Siem Riep

In the jungle - Ratnakiri province

Sun Set - Ratnakiri - Cambodia

Phon Penh - Killing Fields

VIETNAM 07 - Hue, Nha Trang, Ho Chi Minh, Mekong Delta, ...

2007-01-25T21:48:00.000-08:00

Good Morning Vietnam!!!!

Yes, I am in the country of Ho Chi Minh, place of the famous Vietnam war and country where the communist regime feels more like capitalism, with many "pretty" red flags everywhere.

Saigon Wall

Rickshaw in Saigon

yummy food - right out of the sea

Rush Hour - Saigon

More articles on Vietnam here: - "Vietnam 09 - Hanoi, Halong Bay, Mai Chao, ...

Laos - Luang Nam Tha, Muang, Ngoi, Nong Khiaw, ...

2007-01-04T14:02:00.000-08:00

New Year brings change to my travelling too. I have decided it is a time to cross to another country and so shortly after stepping into 2007 I have left China and crossed to Laos. There were not any major delays on the border and without even taking bags out of the bus I easily swapped the countries and continued all the way to Luang Nam Tha. The first bigger place after the border. It was not as far into the country, but the change is noticeable. Suddenly I found myself in the tropical country, with less advanced technology and no people. That is the biggest change from China. There are not many people and roads are almost traffic free. What a pleasure to cycle around. Also the local villages are much less developed then in China.

LUANG NAM THA - is nice and quite cheap place to hang out. People there are friendly and I really enjoy going through the surrounding villages. You can see much of the local life there and just easily walk or cycle in the countryside. Many rice fields on the foothills.

NONG KHIAW - Second place to where I moved from Luang Nam Tha. Living is relatively cheap and I have managed to find excellent room with a terrace overlooking a Nam Ou river and with the really friendly owners. One of a few people, who were nice in this place. Food in the restaurants is overpriced and there is no choice of any local cuisine. Shops are sometimes more expensive then restaurants for the same items. For me this place is a big rip off, where people are not used to the tourism yet and they see just easy money. Though they do not offer anything in return. They rather try to cheat you to maximalise their profits. So no bargain, no discount, but many ridiculous requests. It made me really angry to deal with some of them. And they all look so miserable, like they hate their life. That is a big difference from Luang Nam Tha. There people in the villages live normal life and they are happy. Although they are a bit reserved and also the language barrier, you can talk with them, laugh with them, ….. In Nong Khiaw it is not possible and when you manage to interact with someone, sooner or later they will try to make money from you. Well, that’s mine feeling about the place.

MUANG NGOI - much better choice, although it is very much a tourist village. People there are much friendlier and they still live their traditional lives. You can do some nice walks in the surrounding, explore the villages and the mountain scenery around is rather spectacular. As it is on the river and the access is only by a boat, you can do lots of other activities too. Like to hire a kayak or a local with the boat and go around for a ride or fishing, swimming, tubing. This place is an hour boat ride up the river from Nong Khiaw and it cost 18.000 Kip one way.

LUANG PRABANG - quite a big place on a Mekong river, reachable from Nong Khiaw by boat (7 hours - 100.000 kip) or by bus (4 hours - 32.000 kip). It is watched by Unesco for its unique colonial architecture and many “Wats” which is a Buddhist temple. It is incredibly touristy place, thanks to the airport and easy reach from Thailand or Vientiane. Many people also come by boat on the Mekong river, which is also great experience. Accommodation is much more expensive, but you have much bigger choice of food. Its night market with its barbeques and street dishes makes it cheap and tasty culinary experience.

...just one more beer...

VANG VIENG - more like a tourist town, where the local life goes on. Many restaurants have TV playing all day long the famous shows like Friends or Simpsons and some also show good films. But no need to move, it is easy to stay in hammock on the river or in front of your bungalow. Don’t worry, there are possibilities for an active life style too. The countryside has many hills and caves, which you can visit. It is simple to go for the river kayaking, rock climbing, tubing (one of the local tourist attraction - drink as many beers as you can stand, while tubing down the river), rent a bike or just walk through the jungle to the nearby villages. In the evening, you can watch a line of millions of bats twisting above the hills just after the sunset. It is an incredible natural phenomenon. The bats group and leave the cave together to hunt for a food at the same time. They create long line stretching over the horizon. You can see them every evening for a few minutes. It’s like a watching a show.

Absolutely perfect place to stay is in the bungalows “On the other side”, which you can find just after crossing the bamboo bridge over the river. You are so closed to the main street, but in a relaxing place completely isolated from civilisation by the river. You can enjoy many great views to the open countryside, on hills, jungle and rice fields and of course, the river life on the other side. There is nothing though, you would be deprived of. Two bungalow restaurants can cook you great food or make a fruit shake anytime of the day.

Rooster fights - old local tradition

Another think I was looking for and found is a rooster fight. It is something very typical for Laos and other countries in South East Asia. For me it is rather a perfect photo opportunity. It isn’t been made into a tourist attraction like a kickboxing. It still continues to be just a passion of the local people. And that is what the atmosphere was like.

BEST WISHES FOR 2007

2007-01-01T20:21:00.000-08:00

Many Greetings from a far away lands and the best wishes for Christmas and New Year 2007.

Time flies, especially for me while travelling.

Last eight months were great and I did many things which deeply enriched my life.

Some of them might sound little bit crazy, but for me they were the most wonderful experience ;)

To all of you lots of sun shinning in your souls and magic of the world

revealing in anything you might lay your eye on!

All the best from 'Z'

CHINA - South/East (Chengdu, Kunming, Emei Shan, ...)

2006-11-13T21:06:00.000-08:00

I have finally left the Himalayas behind. After sending my bicycle onwards to the New Zealand I had decided to leave Lhasa by a plane. Tickets out of season were discounted by 50% and so it was a good coincidence. For me it was a perfect way to say good bye to my mountain adventure and finally finish a half year of mountain exploration. The weather was on my side. Blue sky and amusing visibility were the mountains gift for my departure. I had all the Himalayas spread around like in the palm of my hand. Here I understood why they call the Tibet “Roof of the World”. To see all the mountains below is such a sensation, like seeing the ocean curved on the horizon. The only difference is that the horizon is disappearing in the endless snowy peaks. The perfect good bye.

Sichuan Opera, Chengdu

Sichuan province is bordering Tibet and it has very old cultural background. It is mainly famous by its Tea. Sichuan means “four rivers” and yet many rivers are sparkling down the mountains through the province. Local cuisine is quite spicy, using lots of chilli and “Sichuan pepper”. The way of eating specific to this region is the Hot Pot. A big pot in the middle of the table, full of spicy broth and with the flame underneath. You cook the food of your choice by yourself in it. Climate is rather humid and it creates a grey overcast in the area. This is badly affecting the atmosphere of otherwise beautiful city, where the blue skies during the winter time are rare.

CHENGDU - I have landed in Chengdu, the city of Pandas, Sichuan Opera and also known as the “Tea Mecca”. Full with the Teahouses and excellent tea on every corner. No wonder I spent there, with some breaks, almost three weeks, being lazy, enjoying nice people, lots of tea and very good food. That’s what I call relax and recovery time after the mountains, especially after cycling in the Tibet.

Giant Pandas, Panda center - Chengdu

Pandas - (Famous Giant Panda) - Can be found in nearby Panda reservation. The Giant Pandas in its population of something like 1000 is one of the most known endangered specie in the world. They are living almost entirely in north and northwest of the Sichuan province and in a few centres around the globe. They are purely vegetarian (95%), eating several kinds of bamboo trees. From about 300 different variations across the China, they eat only 20 of them. Considering their size, they can consume an enormous amount of food a day. Something like 20kg. They spent around 15 hours a day eating and the rest they sleep. Almost symbol for laziness. They are solitary animal, getting together only in the time for reproduction. Very often they give a birth to a two cubs, but only one is to survive. With the care of the human in the centre, the numbers of cubs surviving increased a lot. It is unforgettable experience to watch their routine, way of eating and fooling around.

EMEI SHAN - mountain (3077 meters) - my most likely last proper mountain for a while ;)
One of the Middle Kingdom’s famous Buddhist mountains with many temples and monasteries.

Buddhist temple, Emei mountain

The Great Buddha, Lesham

LESHAM - The city of the Grand Buddha. It is 140 km south away from Chengdu. City itself is situated on the long peninsula created by a big river. Long promenade is lined with many small restaurants, where you can enjoy afternoon sun together with a great view on the river. It seems to be relaxed place, an easy hang out for a few days. I went there to see the Grand Buddha, which is the main attraction there. Though, I was not prepared to pay 130 Juan for it. It might be nice to walk in the park and then descend on the side of the Buddha, but I think the price is a bit overboard. Nevertheless, while walking through the city, we met a nice local guy - Peter - who had told us, how to see the Buddha just for two Juan. And it was exactly what I was looking for. Not only the price, but the location was just right for taking pictures. We took a ferry to a small island on the river, where the locals go for picnics. One of it ends faces the Grand Buddha across the river in 40 meters distance. So you get to see it very well.

"Yunnan province is situated in the Southern part of China and you can see influence of all the surrounding countries in it. It lies on the borders with Vietnam, Laos, Maymar (Burma) and Tibet. It is place of many variations - from Snowy Mountains in the North to tropical rainforests in the South. It is also famous by its ethnic minority mix. You can find almost 50% of China ethnic minorities here. And the weather is much nicer here then anywhere else, with a blue skies most of the year."

KUNMING - Yunan province, big modern city with great atmosphere and wonderful "Flover and Birds Market" - really original.

Dinner? - local speciality, Kunming

Contact Juggling, Huating Temple

Huating Temple, Western Mountains

DALI - Beautiful city, place where the Daoism and TaiChi were born, ...

Unknown Soldier, Dali

JINGHONG - a capital of Xishuangbanna prefecture. It is situated on the Mekong river. Nice and relaxing place with cheap living and excellent food choices. It is easy to get around on foot or rent a bicycle for further explorations. The main change noticeable on the arrival is more humid, rather tropical weather and palm trees lining its streets. There are also two way language signs, both in Chinese and Dai. Dai language looks very curly, something like Thai. And indeed it is very similar to Lao and Northern Thai dialects. If you speak any Thai, it will help you to get around very well. Dai people belong to sect of Hinayana Buddhism and their temples are very different to those of Tibetan or even Chinese one. I spent my New Years Eve in Jinghong. After enjoying an excellent day out of the city and cycling alongside the Mekong river to Ganlanba. Later on I had lots of good food and drinks in one of the local Café Restaurants, celebrating with two German girls and two guys from Holland. There were a few other foreigners and some Chinese around too. Midnight brought cheering with a glass of a local beer and enjoying Chinese explosives. Later that night we all went on exploring the wonders of a Chinese disco. Fun night out.

Little puppies, Kunming

On the table - Billiard of the young age

GANLANBA - Small town around 25km from the Jinghong. It is quite an easy bike ride (2 - 3 hours) to this ethnical place lying on the Mekong river. Road itself is busy with traffic, which is a real downside of this spectacular ride. Otherwise you can just enjoy great views on the Mekong and surrounding hills. I really liked a Dai temple at the entrance of Ganglaba and wood carving workshop in its side. Some amusing peaces there covered with dust and spider webs turned this place into a fabulous photo composition. Ganglaba is also famous by its Xishuangbanna Dai Garden, where the “Water Splashing Carnival” is being held. Now as one of the major attractions, lots of nice and young girls (100 by the propaganda) are splashing and dancing every afternoon in the Garden Park. Other things to see in the garden are some peacocks, Buddhist Temple, Princess Well and many nice trees and flowers. You can also take a ferry across to explore other side of the river, small villages, ....

MENGLA - An uninteresting smaller city, but important crossing point on the way to Laos. From here you can get a local bus to Mohan and then cross on food to Laos or you can get on the so called “international bus”, which will take you all the way to Luang Nam Tha (in Laos) for 32 Juan. It is minibus, which goes once a day in both directions and makes the way much easier. Four hours later you depart to a relaxing cit of Luang Nam Tha. You can get Laos visas directly on the border.

More articles on China here: - "CHINA - South/West (Kunjerab, Karakul, Kashgar)"

CHINA - South/East (Chengdu, Kunming, Emei Shan, ...)

2006-11-13T03:25:00.000-08:00

Sichuan Opera, Chengdu

Giant Pandas, Panda center - Chengdu

EMEI SHAN - mountain (3077 meters) - my most likely last proper mountain for a while ;)
One of the Middle Kingdom’s famous Buddhist mountains with many temples and monasteries.

Buddhist temple, Emei mountain

The Great Buddha, Lesham

KUNMING - Yunan province, big modern city with great atmosphere and wonderful "Flover and Birds Market" - really original.

Dinner? - local speciality, Kunming

Contact Joggling, Huating Temple

Huating Temple, Western Mountains

DALI - Beautiful city, place where the Daoism and TaiChi were born, ...

Unknown Soldier, Dali

Little puppies, Kunming

On the table - Billiard of the young age

More articles on China here: - "CHINA - South/West (Kunjerab, Karakul, Kashgar)"

TIBET 06 - Kashgar to Lhasa by bicycle (Kailash, Manasovar) 1/5

2006-10-12T01:02:00.000-07:00

Some monks are still here!!!

I have always dreamed of visiting Tibet and having enough time to explore it. And what could be a better way, then to cycle through it?! Well, motorbike would also be great, considering the road conditions, physical harshness of the place and distances beyond the imagination. Yet, due to Chinese policy, foreigners are not allowed to drive any motorized vehicles themselves. Not that you are officially allowed to travel in the Tibet either! At the time I've decided to buy a mountain bike in Kashgar and set on the way, it seemed the perfect way and I was truly excited to be on the way .... In this part is my travel from Kashgar to Lhasa city through the Western Tibet.

ROAD BOOK and HIGHLIGHTS (Kashgar - Lhasa, 2.900 km, by bicycle)

Road condition on the Xinjiang - Tibet Highway is generally very rough, with many challenges coming from sandy patches, dust clouds created by passing vehicles (fortunately not too much traffic), rocky sections and always presented corrugations. This all in the altitudes around 4.000 - 5.500 meters, usually more closer to 5.000 meters then lower, with many passes ascending for a ten's of kilometres and strong winds pushing you around in the afternoon. And when you finally feel, it could not get any better - the weather change and brings you some snow to enjoy. During my trip the temperatures at night would drop down to - 15 degrees of Celsius (when a big river next to my tent would turn into a sad patch of ice) and during the day sometimes down to - 5 degrees of Celsius (when the heavy snow clouds would not let the sun to say hello).

Morning after one snowy night out in nowhere

"Have a good journey" - Bey, Bey Kashgar

Cycling out of Kashgar was nice, though my bike is more looking like a fully loaded yak then a bicycle (around 35kg). Also my body had to get use to the new exercise. First 250km to Yecheng (Karghilik in Uighur) went on smoothly on a good asphalt road. Some smaller hills, but generally through the very dry or desert areas and patches of greenery, where some Uighur villages could be found. The only really annoying thing on this way was the "Ramadan". There was not much food available during the day nor tea and also people I meet being friendly, but not knowing how to cope with hospitality, when nothing could be offered. Sometimes you could really see they would like to invite me. One even said: "oh, if not Ramadan, we would have a lunch together". And at night, when all the restrictions lift, I was already camping somewhere out of town.

"Wake up" - drunken Uighur - Kashgar

km 58 - Yengisar - A small town known by its knife production of famous Uighur knifes. They use them in everyday life, households, as a presents or even as a decoration. Every Uighur men has got one, usually hanging of his belt. Some of the smaller ones are carried above ankle or in the shoe. They are good to "slit a throat" as I was told. Sizes, shapes, decoration varies.

Uighur knifes - Yengisar

km 250 - Yecheng (Karghilik in Uighur) - The entry gate to Tibet. Joining the road 219 - Xinjiang - Tibet Highway. Karghilik is another Uighur place, where Han Chinese are just a little minority. For me it was one of the most touching Uighur places. Unfortunately I didn't spend there too much time. Even though I only met extremely friendly people, took lots of pictures and again enjoyed the wonders of the local cuisine.

Yecheng - from the streets

km 469 - second pass 4993 by GPS from one of the road books. A beautiful mountain scenery, all covered by a snow, including the pass. From this point is going to be cycling in high altitudes, with a minimum of 4.000 meters above the sea level. Some 2.000 km later will start slow descend to 3.600 meters in Lhasa.

From the second pass - mine bike

km 493 - Mazar - First more important place after Yecheng, where you can get some cooked food (good Chinese), restock on supplies.

From Mazar the road climbs many high passes and crosses huge high altitude plateaus - like the famous one - "Aksai Chin" - where all the distances are deceiving. It seems to be just a few kilometres, but in fact the mountains on the other side never come closer. Sometimes it takes a whole day to cross one plateau and then you realise, it was around 50 km. Unbelievable?! On the way you see many lakes and beautiful mountain scenery, enjoy a waste space and solitude surrounding you. Sometimes you see a few nomads in a far distance with their animals grazing on almost no grass lands.

Aksai Chin plateau

km 1094 - Domar - a military base and a place to get some food to eat, dormitories and a few shops to restock.

km 1199 - Rutok Xian - quite a big place with shops, bank, restaurants. Situated to a Tibetan part of the Pangon lake (104 km long). Pangong lake is nowadays situated between Tibet (China occupied territory) and Ladakh (under the India rule). From here the really bad road continues all the way to Ali.

From the road - locals waiting for a lift

km 1330 - Ali - Also called Senge Khabab (the Town of the Lion) is the capital of Ali prefecture. Big town, where you can find almost everything. Full of a good restaurants (Chinese, Tibetan, Uighur), public showers (hot water again), bank, excellent food supplies in the supermarkets. It is the first big break point on the way to Lhasa, where you can easily regain energy for the second part of the road.There is also a direct bus to Lhasa (on the North road), making the travelling far more easier.

Short patch of a good road after Ali

Small settlements on the plateaus, road views - Tibet

“PILGRIMAGE” is being practised all around the world and it can be found in almost every religion. It is usually a journey connected with some rituals on the way. The most famous might as well be the one to Mecca (Muslims), to Rome (Christians) or the road through the Pyrenees to Santiago de Compostela. For Hindu and Buddhist is one of the most precious ways the visit to Mt. Kailash. Pilgrimage in Tibet is very strongly practised and you can meet pilgrims from all over the country travelling to holy places like - Mt. Kailash, Lake Manasovar, Tirthapuri (hot springs), Yamdrok tso, Nam tso, Sheldrak and many others. Most of the pilgrimages in the Tibet include a circuit - "kora" around the particular place. The act of "kora" is stronger, if it is done at sun rise or sun set, at the time of full moon or if you repeat it 3 times, 13 times, 108 times. Some of the pilgrims also practise "Chaktsal" - the prostration, which is a powerful way to show their devotion. It is sometimes called as a "measuring the earth" as the followers move only by their body length each time. Lying down flat on the ground and then getting up and walking the distance of their body. This they repeat all the way. Pilgrimage for many Tibetans also means accumulating merit (sonam) and good luck (tashi).

km 1526 - Moincer - bigger town, great food, entry gate to "Tirthapari" pilgrimage and its hot springs. It is being said - no holly pilgrimage to Mt. Kailash is completed without visiting Tirthapari and having bath in its hot springs. They are closely associated with the "Guru Rimpoche". Pilgrims traditionally bath there after completing the circuit on Mt. Kailash. They are located 9 km of the main road from Moicer. Continuing on from from Moincer it is only 66 km to Darchen and Mt. Kailash (still one day bike ride though).

Traditional way of transport, Darchen

km 1592 - Darchen - Entry gate to Mt. Kailash Pilgrimage. One of the holiest mountains in the world. There are a shops, restaurants, hotels and dorms available, but generally speaking, it is a dirty and ugly place. All town looks like one big tip, with rubbish piling everywhere. Not really a wonderful entry gate to such a holly place you would imagine. Though, there is a recent huge development happening. Many new houses are being build and I guess they will pave it soon too. Yet, another one to be made presentable towards the forthcoming Olympic games.

Mt. Kailash - the North face
Mt. KAILASH “KORA” (circuit)

This place was considered as a myth for a long time in Europe. When the first news came about a holy mountain somewhere in the Asia, with a perfect shape, snow capped all year round and with beautiful twin lakes nearby - people could not believe it. Only in 19th century, one European traveller made the difficult journey through the Himalayas and there he found it. Exactly as described - not a myth at all, but reality!

Mt. KAILASH (6714 meters) - Has all year round snow capped peak. Called Kang Rimpoche in Tibetan (Precious Jewel of Snow). Its four main walls match the cardinal points of the compass. It is one of the most important and holiest mountains in the world and it has been an object of worship for four main religions: 1. HINDU (Shiva, the destroyer), 2. BUDDHIST (Demchok, in Sanskrit = Samvara) - a wrathful manifestation of Sakyamuni (equivalent of the Shiva) 3. JAINS of India, 4. BON - sacred Yungdrung Gutseg - Nine Stacked Swastika Mountain.

Pilgrims, Mt. Kailash kora

The circuit around the mountain offers the possibility of liberation within three lifetimes and also one lifetime of your karma for each round. The circuit itself is about 52 km long, with the highest point to cross - Drolma La (5630 metres). It's nice to take the way in 3 relaxing days, but it can be done as short as 15 hours. This is usually done only by Tibetan pilgrims, who are repeating the kora for many times. They almost look like they were flying around. Also I feel I could make it in one day with no problems, but I chose the slow option to fully enjoy the place/passing pilgrims, ... It took me three days with just a few hours to walk every day carrying my big bag. Most of the pilgrims do it very light or have their stuff carried by yak.

On the Kailash kora

FACTS ABOUT THE MOUNTAIN

Number four plays an important role in all the events connected with the mountain. As I mentioned, its four main walls match the compass and they all have very special name: 1. South face - Lapis Lazuli, 2. West face - Ruby, 3. North face - Gold and 4. East face - Crystal. Mt. Kailash is also a place, where 4 big Asian rivers begins - Sutlej, Karnali, Brahmaputra (Yarlung Tsangpo) and Indus.

On the kora, Mt. Kailash

km 1614 - Barga - small and dusty place, entry point for the Lake Manasovar. If you cycling from Darchen, take a part of the kora - circuit first (anti clock wise) and then follow a small road across the bridge. It will safe you one river crossing and also quite a few kilometers. Eventually you will join the main road again, somewhere before Barga. And the most important, the road is really nice! In Barga we stopped for a yak butter tea and played a few games of billiard, with excellent panorama of the Mt. Kailash in the background.

Playing billiard in Barga, Mt. Kailash still in the background

15 km off the main road - Manasovar Lake (4560 meters) - also known in Tibetan as “Mapham Yum tso” - the Victorious Lake. The circuit (kora) around the lake is 110 kilometres long and take 3 to 5 days. Most travellers/pilgrims head to "Chin Monastery" first and starts their kora from there. We had skipped it and instead went off road towards the town of "Hor Qu". Believing in the existence of kind of a dirt road, making the kora possible to access by a jeep ride (I have red it somewhere), we arrived at the lake shore nearby the ruins of the "Chekip Monastery". Now only represented by a large chorten. Mt. Kailash is still visible in the background. There are a high cliffs by its side, with long prayer flags and many caves/hermitages. Some of them are so big and well equipped, they have become a permanent houses for a monks. Other are just as basic as a sheep skin on the floor for a meditation and stonewall covering the entrance. I have squatted into one of the larger one, situated high in the cliff face. Apart from the beautiful view I was astound by its comfort. There were a several rooms, wood and yak shit storage (full), teapots, thermoses, stove, tsampa, kitchen stuff, oils, incense, blankets, ..... On the walls religious pictures, thangas, praying wheel and beads next to the meditation seat. It all looked as the monk had just left for a short walk (and maybe he did :) Really nice place to spend a few years. As the road did not exist our expectation for the next day ride were not very happy. We pitched up the tents on above the lake shore with view all around and enjoyed this magical place. Our solitude was not meant to last too long. On our return from the caves, two nomad tents were erected nearby and few horses were grazing around. Those Tibetan pilgrims were walking the lake kora and kind of really belonged to the place. So it did not loose its atmosphere. They were curious and friendly.

Manasovar Tso kora is one of the most important pilgrimages in Tibet. The lake represents female wisdom aspect of enlighment and is a symbol of good fortune and fertility. It is said that circuit (kora) of Lake Manasovar can result in spontaneous buddhahood.

Nomads, Manasovar Tso (lake)

On the road :)

km 1639 - Hor Qu - another ugly town, built in the Chinese style. Despite all, still important stop on the Manasovar Lake. You can hire horses for the kora here, restock on supplies or find some hot food in the local restaurants. After lunch there, we cycled over the smaller pass to make some more kilometres before sun set. Soon after we were forced to camp quickly near the road by coming snow storm. Once in the tent and with the stove running, it was all good. In the morning we "very much enjoyed" (a word starting with F.... was the first thing that come on my tongue, when I opened my tent that morning. And same I heard once Lars peaked from his tent later on) a couple of centimetres of the fresh snow.

View before Raka, South and North road joining

km 1873 - Paryang - place with good Chinese food, some hotels and shops. There are many nomad tents on the plains before and after this town. Also impressive sand dunes can be seen along the way. It is nice to see all the livestock (animals) on the surrounding planes. Some areas are rather sad, when you see Chinese attempts to settle down the nomads presented by many houses through the plains or shabby/dusty villages build next to the road. Most of them empty at the moment, but this will probably change in the future.

km 1945 - side road to New Zhongba - new Chinese style city with many shops, good restaurants, Internet, petrol station and the asphalt road (7km) connecting it with the main road (dirt road).

Behind the hotel - New Zhongba

Billiard is everywhere - streets of Saga

km 2109 - Saga - Important town where you can find everything - shops, Internet, bus connection to Lhatse, Lhasa, many restaurants, big hotels, hot shower. For many cyclists also the place, where they take the turn (shortcut) towards the Nepal, joining the "Friendship Highway" some 180 kilometres later - near Tingri. Tingri is one of the bigger places in the Everest region. My way took me to Lhasa instead.

km 2180 - Raka - small place with a few shops and restaurants. It gain its importance, because the North Road from Ali is joining the South Road just a few kilometres before the town. The North Road is used by most of the trucks and also the direct bus from Ali to Lhasa goes there.

km 2210 - Beginning of road construction, really bad road (the worst since Kashgar) for next 150 kilometres or so. Almost all the way to Lhatse.

Also a way to get through the really shitty road

km 2463 - Lhatse (4050 metres) - Finally joining the "Friendship Highway". Bigger town, but not very interesting. Nice asphalt road starts from here and there is only one high pass on the way to Lhasa left.

km 2615 - Shigatse (3900 metres) - Second biggest city in Tibet, after Lhasa. The capital of Tsang province. Shigatse is known as the seat of the Panchen Lama, who is traditionally based in Tashilhunpo monastery. Nowadays it has been rapidly expanding Chinese town, with many new buildings, shops, restaurants, ... There is daily bus connection to Lhasa. Altitude is slowly lowering and the weather is becoming milder. The road follows the "Yarlung Tsangpo" river, also known as the Brahmaputra in India.

From the road - Tibet

km 2884 - LHASA - The capital of Tibet and traditional home of the Dalailama (Potala). It is an ancient city full of religion, pilgrims and tourists, with a dominant castle of the Dalailamas and several big monasteries in the neighbourhood. First news about Lhasa becoming a capital of the Tibet is from around 650 AD, but its status had changed through the following centuries. It has stayed in its status since the fifth Dalailama built the Potala palace and re-established Lhasa as a capital in 1642. There are several circuits/koras in Lhasa. One is around the Potala palace. Other called The Barkhor circles the heart of Lhasa and Tibetan old town - the Jokhang temple. Linghor kora - traditional route circling the old city and it is almost 8 km long. It does incorporate the new Chinese developments nowadays as it use the old route walked by the pilgrims for centuries.

Potala Palace at night, Lhasa

Continue your reading here: - "Tibet - Lhasa city (life, pilgrims, Buddhism, ...) 2/5

Tibet - Lhasa city (life, pilgrims, Buddhism, ...) 2/5

2006-10-11T04:02:00.000-07:00

LHASA - The capital city of Tibet - The capital of Tibet and traditional home of the Dalailama (Potala Palace). It is an ancient city full of religion, pilgrims and tourists, with a dominant castle of the Dalailamas and several big monasteries in the neighbourhood. First news about Lhasa becoming a capital of the Tibet is from around 650 AD, but its status had changed through the following centuries. It has stayed in its status since the fifth Dalailama built the Potala palace and re-established Lhasa as a capital in 1642. There are several circuits/koras in Lhasa. One is around the Potala palace. Other called The Barkhor circles the heart of Lhasa and Tibetan old town - the Jokhang temple. Linghor kora - traditional route circling the old city and it is almost 8 km long. It does incorporate the new Chinese developments nowadays as it use the old route walked by the pilgrims for centuries. Main places in Lhasa are:

Lhasa - Praying Wheels

BARKHOR SQUARE - traditional place of protests, pilgrimage, entrance to Jokhang temple and Barkhor kora. This is the real Tibetan heart of Lhasa. It creates border between old city and new Chinese development with a large streets, modern shops, restaurants. On one side are all the designers, famous brands shops and with the Jokhang temple, old city on the other. Circuit is full of sellers with traditional clothes, jewellery, incense, thangas, prayer flags and beads. There are always many pilgrims walking around and quite a lot of people prostrate. Along the way you can find several small temples and nunneries. Pilgrims and the smell of burned Juniper make it into a magical place.

Praying, Jokhang Temple, Lhasa

Barkhor Kora, Lhasa

RAMOCHE - Is smaller, but very interesting temple in Lhasa. At the time of my stay, they had many ceremonies and also the sand mandala there. All these were happening as the result of a bigger repair works. One day I was lucky to see there a Guru Rimpoche (the head lama) - a very interesting old men. There is also small temple/chapel on the side of Ramoche called Tsepak Lhakhang - always filled with many pilgrims. Its atmosphere is indeed magical. Ramoche is a sister temple to the Jokhang, originally built to host the “Jowo Shakyamuni” image, before it got moved to the Jokhang.

JOKHANG - one of the oldest and most religious places. It hosts the “Jowo Shakyamuni” - the most revered Buddha image in Tibet. A long cue of pilgrims waiting for access the Jowo is all the time circling inside temple and it’s definitely worth it to wait with them. There are also always many pilgrims praying in front of the temple. No matter if it is opened or closed. For the Tibetans it represents the living heart of their culture and therefore the time doesn’t make any difference. From its roof you can see roofs of an old town, surrounding mountains and also the Potala Palace.

Tibetan, Jokhang Temple

Lhasa - Potala palace (from the back side)

POTALA PALACE - Is stunning architectural creation, dominant on the hill. Nowadays surrounded by an entire newly build Chinese city. The old Tibetan city itself is situated around the Jokhang temple. It used to be a lively place, residence of Dalai Lamas. Nowadays it’s rather sad museum. It is being recognised as a national heritage by Chinese, but this is quite a recent movement. It used to be left to deteriorate in past. Now it is full of Chinese tourists, who come to admire the beauty of its architecture. Photography is strictly forbidden and you can see many signs to remind you about that. And in case you cannot read, each room is heavily guarded. You are not allowed to bring in lighters or matches, but my two knifes were perfectly ok. Reopened to public in 1980 and since then it went through some renovations. The most recent development is happening in the park behind the palace, which is being fully rebuilt. One of the main reasons for that is forthcoming of the Olympic Games in 2008 and also I heard Unesco had some talk about it with the Chinese government too.

Potala Palace inside, Lhasa

Potala Palace - On the way up

LUKHANG TEMPLE - A temple on the small island on the lake behind the Potala palace.

Lukhang Temple, Lhasa

CHANGPO RI (Iron Mountain) - used to have one of the principal medical colleges (Mentsikhang), but now is dominated by a steel telecom tower (mast). Though there are very beautiful rock carvings on a cliff there. Not much visited by tourists, just a local people there.

Rock carvings, Changpo Ri

Lhasa - from the city kora

Continue your reading here: - "Tibet - Greater Lhasa (Ganden, Sera, ....) 3/5

Tibet - Greater Lhasa (Ganden, Sera, ....) 3/5

2006-10-10T03:43:00.000-07:00

GREATER LHASA - surrounding monasteries, co untryside

There are several big and very important monasteries around Lhasa. Some of them are in the suburbs others in a day trip distance from the city. Those three mentioned bellow are the biggest and the most important of them all.

DREPUNG - Some 8km from the Jokhang, used to be one of the largest monasteries (means “rice heap”). Founded in 1416 by a disciple of Tsongkhapa. It has four main colleges devoted to “Ngagpa” - Tantric study, “Loseling” - Logic, “Gomang” and “Deyang” - religious study. There is also an interesting debating courtyard, but I felt about it as being rather a theatre performance (also with many tourists around) then a real religious discussion. It used to host up to 10.000 monks. Now they are allowed to have only something like 800 heads.

Kitchen, Dhrepung Monastery

SERA - lies 5 km from Jokhang temple. It also belongs to the Gelupa order. It used to have up to 5.000 monks, but now you can find only a few hundreds there. It has a really good debating courtyard. Founded by another disciple of Tsongkhapa in 1419. Sera kora (circuit) is great, containing many stunning views. You can also climb the mountains behind and it is good starting point for a further trekking. Generally speaking, it is very lively place busting with real atmosphere. Together with the Ganden it would be my most favourite monastery in a whole Tibet.

SERA UTSE - retreat place, high above the monastery. There are no tourists there, just a few pilgrims, but really great place with very nice keepers. Of course I climbed up there as I saw it from bellow. A small boy (around 6 years old) took care of me and showed me around. Then he invited me into their hose, with the older keeper hosted me with tea and we learned some English together. I enjoyed a few hours up there with them.

Sera Monastery

GANDEN (4500 meters) - around 50 km from Lhasa. I made my way there cycling. All the way to he village below the monastery. Here I parked my bike and went for a steep climb up to the monastery. There is a road just being finished, but I much more like the walk. You also meet lots of Tibetan pilgrims in this way. You have time to enjoy a great views on the surrounding mountains and nearby valleys. Ganden was build as a first Gelupa monastery in 1409 (means Joyous) and it is also named as the Western Paradise (known as Tushita), the home of Jampa the Future Buddha. It is one of the most beautiful and friendly monasteries. Come around the noon, when the tour groups leave and also most of the pilgrims start to descent to catch their last busses to Lhasa. Then you can slowly browse many temples and enjoy quiet, magical atmosphere of the place and the surrounding mountains. I was lucky to experience a “real” and most powerful debate in my life, with the stunning mountain scenery in the background. I was the only intruder!

Ganden Monastery, surrounding mountains

Continue your reading here: - "Tibet - Tibetans, Tibetan culture 4/5

Tibet - Tibetans, Tibetan culture 4/5

2006-10-09T03:22:00.000-07:00

THOUGHTS ABOUT THE TIBETAN CULTURE IN LHASA AND IN GENERAL

In this part I am trying to summarise my experience with the Tibet and its culture. The view point is mainly taken on Lhasa and its inhabitants. This is because I feel; there is really big difference between people living in Lhasa and the Nomads in the very remote areas. Not only in the lifestyle, but also in education and Chinese influence. Yet, it also includes the view on the whole culture as many pilgrims cruise the country and brings their experience with them.

There is no way to keep old Tibet preserved as it was. The change is inevitable and also needed. Though NOT in the way as Chinese see and apply it!

Tibet itself is still very little developed in some areas, especially where the Nomads still practise the traditional way of life. Of course, there are other parts, where the development took off very fast - like Lhasa, where the development is so fast it might sometimes be too difficult to integrate the change to the mentality.

Lhasa is one big melting pot, where new and old is mixing together inseparably parallel. Like a spirals crossing its ways - sometimes on its own, sometimes together. Lhasa is also an easy place to hang out, full of culture and life. Mix between Han Chinese, Tibetans and pilgrims from all over the country. Pilgrims are easy to spot as they are usually traditionally dressed. And of course, there are some westerners there. In November were not so many of them, because it is out of season and even Lhasa is getting cold. I was told there is not much snow usually. But the surrounding mountains get quite a lot of it. Face of Lhasa is changing very fast. Vast Chinese influence with modern development, buildings, technology, new shops and simplified working life style is what you can see on every step. All the developments and especially the modern technology are changing the native Tibetans faster then ever. Many migrants from all over the country are seeking here new opportunities and better lifestyle here. Competing in unequal fight with Han Chinese, whose migration is supported by the Chinese government.

Watching some Tibetans - let’s say around 30 years old is the group. The age, when they became mature and started to contribute to a normal life. Usually having started a family and incorporate Buddhism together with tradition into the everyday life. It’s them walking on the street partly dressed in the modern closes, with a backpack and shopping in one hand and with the praying beads in the other. They have started to understand their role in the society and found the place for a cultural heritage in their life. Younger Tibetans are fighting for their identity like any other youngsters. Though for them is much harder to do so.

Lhasa streets - No1

On one hand, there is a pressure of tradition, religion and national feeling - being occupied and restricted in their homeland. They hear many stories from their parents and have somebody from the family badly treated by the regime or escaped in the exile. Also, there are many restrictions applied if you are ethnic Tibetan. Like, you can get a passport to travel - Chinese, of course - but as you are ethnic Tibetan a different rules do apply. Han Chinese can easily travel to Nepal, even drive there. Ethnic Tibetan with the same passport can not cross the border. And if so, then it is very complicated.

The other side forming their personality is pressure from the modern world. All the new things - mobiles, comfort, disco, drinking, more open lifestyle - easier life. Education which suppresses the religion and all the cultural believes. The education which tries to breed atheists. Many of the younger ones don’t believe in “God” - Buddha, yet still, they can not help themselves wondering, what is behind. Man have fallen into creating new way of believe - believe in being good and doing good things (for a good Karma), and doing so, feeling good for the inner self. They still go to the temple to pray. But not praying to the same Gods as their parents. They pray to find their inner peace in the place of tradition, the place where believes even for non believers could be expressed and wished for, thanked for, …

And when they grow older and become more mature, they hold upon the tradition more and also understand it more. Not being same as their parents, but keeping Tibet with its culture in their hearts.

Traditional way of living, with the prayer on the lips and spinning prayer wheel in the hand - especially preserved by an older generation. More traditional families keeps their children fully involved and so passing on tradition continues.

Offerings for dead person, Lhasa streets

Then you have all the pilgrims coming from every corner of the country, bringing in ancient way of pilgrimage, prayers and clothing. They keep all the others to remember, what it means to be the Tibetan. Some of them never seen a foreigner before and in the way, they are so natural in their behaviour.

Generally speaking, Tibetans are rather reserved and it takes a time to break into their closer circles, to be accepted as a part of their friends’ circles. Yet, they are very curious, with high self esteem and confidence - that is why there is so much stress on ego lowering in the Tibetan Buddhist tradition.

I found it hard to make friends with them sometimes, because they are so reserved. But sometimes, when you break the ice and they accept you, they are very sharing and carrying. The nicest people I met were around the Mt. Kailash, while I was doing my kora/pilgrimage. Two old ladies who gave me sweets before the kora; the family I stayed the first night on the kora. They are the most memorable people of them all. It might be, because the holy kora brings people more together. They have something in common. Something, which seems to be so important for the both sides.

Lhasa streets - No2

Continue your reading here: - "Tibet - Buddhist culture in Tibet (heart of Tibet) 5/5

Tibet - Buddhist culture in Tibet (heart of Tibet) 5/5

2006-10-07T02:38:00.000-07:00

Buddhist culture in Tibet: I found it very different to what I thought it would be. Not real expectations, but rather a surprise that came. Especially compared with my experience of the Buddhism in Ladakh and some other places of the Tibetan refugees in India. In Tibet all the religion had been very much regulated by the government and there are specific numbers of monks allowed in each monastery. Sometimes I wonder, why would you want to become a monk here? The older ones, who were monks before, are of course predestined to it, but probably the most watched as well. And the younger ones? I think for some, it is their way of showing devotion to their country and culture, for others the struggle with the Chinese rule. In some remote areas it sometimes become the only way to escape the routine and learn, how to read and write (like a shepherd boy I met in Indian refuge in Dharamsala. After 6 years of being monk, he left to exile and being lucky - he is now in McLeod Ganj.) Most of the monks I met around Tibet were living normal life, focusing on material pleasures and dreams of a comfort life, rather than trying to progress on the way of the enlightenment. I guess it shocked me more, because of experiencing Tibetan refugees abroad, longing for their country and hanging on traditions with almost sacred devotion.

Also my feelings about many monasteries were quite mixed. The strength of old tradition, retreat centers and real masters are now much rarer and in general quite hidden to the outside world. Mainly kept in the remote regions, where even Chinese influence has a long way to go. Most of the places in Lhasa I found a bit more as tourist attraction then the place of a real devotion. I definitely liked Sera Gompa - the very lively place and in some remote parts very devoted. But the Ganden Gompa (50km out of Lhasa) is my most favourite place of all Tibet. Absolutely stunning place, where you easily become overwhelmed with a feel of “real” monks and monastery life. Partly restored, but with many ruins still stretching around. They are the leftovers after heavy artillery shooting, which is still well visible and years of ignorance to this national heritage. Many pilgrims are passing through and also some foreigners. But they usually fast track it. After the midday, when they finished a quick tour through the monastery and is time for them to get back on the bus, there is nobody left. Also most of the pilgrims leave with the last busses to Lhasa, leaving sometimes around 2pm.

In my eyes the real life of the Buddhism in Tibet is done/practised by its ordinary people. Not by monks, but by the ordinary people. It is them, who shows the strong devotion and carry on the tradition and the traditional culture. Monks and monasteries are often too influenced and restricted by the Chinese rule, spies, …. They represent poor fragment of what the religion used to be before.

But the pilgrims, travelling from one part of country to another, that is a different story. Practising traditional ways, turning their mani wheels, building stone cairns as they pass and chanting mantras. They are the real religious and cultural inheritance of Tibet. With them the Tibet lives and dies. They are the most enriching experience, the real heart of the Tibet.

Thinking of some vivid example and touching memory of the Tibetan life, I would like to share the one of an old women walking her rounds with a small dog and turning a huge praying mani wheel. Little dog(Tibetan palace dog race) is circling the wheel by her side, making as many rounds as she does. It always comes to my mind, when I think of some beautiful example of devotion. And in the Buddhist believes it’s even good for the dog, for its karma ;)

"With the tigers" - Lhasa - house paintings

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“A tear had dropped for country ruled and crushed.

Tied with the tradition, but riding on a modern horse.

The country where spirit floats and body dies and

where the happiness holds hands with pain.

The tear had dropped for country and its people.”

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CHINA - South/West (Kunjerab, Karakul, Kashgar, ...)

2006-09-26T14:25:00.000-07:00

KHUNJERAB PASS CROSSING - PART 2

It was not much hassle to cross the border and then we enjoyed a beautiful views on the mountains in Khunjerab National Park. Also Chinese border was without mayor delays and friendly enough not bags checking, so we passed to Taskurgant in the broad sunlight. Here we decided not to stay and took a shared jeep directly to Kashgar (100Juan). A bit pricey, but fast and comfortable.

He stopped for the taking pictures and on Kara Kul lake. We arrived to Kashgar before midnight Beiging time (10 pm Kashgar time, 9 pm Pakistan time). All China operates on the Beiging time, but all locals use the Kashgar time. The only official places taking Beiging time are banks, buses, ... Great dinner in the local Uyghur restaurant has nicely finished the day.

Jurts on Kara Kul Lake

KASHGAR

Crossing onwards from the Pakistan, Uighur town of Kashgar was not as much of a difference. Though the Chinese influence is quite visible. Lots of changes came with the new train line a few years ago and of course lot more Han Chinese come with it too. The old city of Kashgar is slowly disappearing, making a space for the new development. Typical Chinese invasion - rebuild everything with an ugly modern houses, straight streets, big squares. They even have a sightseeing wheel - similar to London Eye there, overlooking the place with nothing to see. Its rather rusty look is not reassuring of its use and even safety.

Kashgar is famous for it's cuisine and honestly, after the Pakistan, the choice is just a great. Uighur food is tasty, consisting of many varieties. Especially focused on meat. But not only, you can find some nice pastries, local nan breads, cold noodles on the streets (local speciality). A bit shocking, but very popular are cooked goat heads or broth made out of them. All the bazaar areas and traditional crafts workshops meet at the big square with the main mosque. It is considered to be one of the biggest mosques in China. Nearby you can watch a chess players sitting under the trees and having their daily match.

Old town streets - Kashgar

I am in China. Hmm, rather a Muslim - Uighur area minority, which is very different to China mainland. And how to get from there to Tibet? Well, why not on the bicycle. Xinjiang - Tibet Highway is officially prohibited to tourists, especially independent travellers. Nowadays yo can pay a bit of money and get on the jeep organised by a travel agencies (around 1700 Juan from Kashgar). This one of the worlds most difficult road takes you almost 2.900km away from Kashgar. All the way to Lhasa.

Giant - cycling shop in Kashgar

So I went to check out one big bicycle shop - Giant Store - in Kashgar to see the possibilities for my cycling adventure. And a few hours later I left the place with a brand new mountain bike fitted with back panniers and everything else I could find for my journey. Still not being completely sure, what I am really doing I took my new "treasure" back to the hotel. Next few days I spent enjoying the cycling around the Kashgar, shopping supplies for the way and thinking, how on earth will I fit all my stuff on the bike. I could not get any front bags and so I eventually found a solution. I fitted one of the baskets there, making my bike really unique. The mechanic from the Giant Store was just holding his head, but he was really nice guy, who helped me a lot. And you might know my affection for a Crumpler logo (sorry Ta). Having a few stickers around I found a great way, how to personalise my new toy - a funky yellow sticker with a black drawing of a man on the front of the basket.

Fruit seller, Kashgar

KASHGAR - (1290 meters) One of the main trading posts on the silk road and melting post for all surrounding minorities of Tajiks, Uzbeks, Han Chinese and Uighurs - which holds the majority. Recent Han Chinese migration is slowly changing the numbers and Uighurs might soon become a minority in their own place.

Local craftsmen - Kashgar

More articles on China here: - "CHINA - South/East (Chengdu, Kunming, Emei Shan)"

Pakistan - South - (Lahore, Peshavar, Islamabad) 1/2

2006-08-26T08:29:00.000-07:00

Pakistan a beautiful country full of friendly people, amusing scenery and tradition.

WAGAH - INDIA/PAKISTAN border

Crossing from India to Pakistan is possible through the Wagah border, which is about 25 km from Amritsar - the city of Sikh's & The Golden Temple. It is easy to get on a local bus to Atari. From here it is an easy distance by the cycle rickshaw (15RS) to the border. Crossing itself is just fun. The bureaucracy between the countries is really ridiculous. Especially India's paranoid approach, with all the forms and many check - like anyone could disappear in between there. You have to pass about 600 meters through the border zone. Stopping at least 3 times on the Indian side for a various reasons. If you come as a backpacker, there are usually no delays. Once you get to Pakistan side, you only enter your passport, take a small ticket with number, pass it to a soldier when you exiting the gate and you are out. No fiddling, no bother.

Smoking "Hukker" on the street - Lahore

The most interesting (apart from the famous flag lowering ceremony) is to watch a stream of porters on both sides carrying a cargo , which they off loaded from the truck on one side and after passing the border zone it again gets loaded on another truck on another side. Each country has got a different coloured uniforms and they carry all boxes to a dividing line. Here they swap a box with their colleagues. Being very careful not to step over the line. To make sure this is being fully followed you have many soldiers closely watching on each side. And if a careless one steps accross the line? Well, a lots of shouting immediately follows.

PESHAWAR

The city with so much feelings. Buzzy multicultural mix coming almost from the fairytale. The old city has very special atmosphere with its old bazaars, full of smells - spice, vegetable, meat and dirt. This city with old Persian Afghan influence was a very important place on the silk road and caravans had stopped there for ages. You can still find many caravanserai's's - usually a big house with a simple accommodation, where the camel caravans stopped for a night and merchants sipped tea and exchanged stories from their travelling. One street leading from a Kabul gate was named after those travellers - "A story tellers street" Old city used to be closed behind the wall and twelve gates led into it. Nowadays only a few of them are left, with the most famous Kabul gate. For me the most magical in the city is to find a little hideaway with old samovar and sip "Kawa" (green tea with cardamon) with the locals. I have found two beautiful places like this. One is in old caravanserai house just about 30 meters from the exit of the cinema road in the first floor. When you walk, you will see a few "keer" places on your right and on your left in the first floor a two big samovars with lots of teapots around are standing out of the wall under the roof. A small entry door will take you upstairs of this A... Hotel/tearoom. Another one is hidden in one of the houses in the spice bazaar in its yard. There are a big scales weighing almonds, rosins, nuts, ..... and in the opposite corner on his "throne" next to the samovars an old men is making tea. A throne place is not just an expression. You have to see yourself a place they put the samovars on, where the tea men is sitting and making all the Kava and Chai into the most ugly/beautiful teapots. Some would call them a broken, aged junk others an antiquity and I know a few foreigners who were begging the owners to get one (not a new one, but the one with the history).

Peshawar - tea place

People there are extremely nice. Many times I have ended up not paying for my tea, as they referred to me as the guest or somebody else just paid for me in the tea shop. I got given bread in the morning and sweets in the sweet shop. Really hospitable people. But of course you have to be careful, there are some not really good individuals, who tries to help you out of your cash. Mainly all the freelance guides, who in the end just take you to some shop to drink tea, .... It is no problem not too buy, but sometimes you feel obliged like giving something back to the guide for all his effort showing you many things around.

AK47? Cheap men! Local tribal men near Peshawar, Pakistan.

And also beware people offering you visit of the "smugglers bazaar" or Kyber Pass. You should really trust the person for it and don't pay more then 300RS for the Smuglers bazaar - a place to see a hashis, heroin, some bad quality fake notes, opium and some guns - AK47, Chinese pistol and a pen gun. That is all. More you can see in Darra - cyber pass village, where many other guns are copied and you can shoot some rounds there. Smugglers bazaar has also Heineken beer and whisky. The best for visiting this place is, if you want some alcohol, beer or hashis to smoke

Wanna steak? Peshawar

RAWALPINDI/ISLAMABAD

From the streets - Rawalpindi

LAHORE

Cinderella in the garbage - Lahore

From the prayers - Lahore

Continue your reading here: - "Pakistan -North (Gilgit, Hunza, Karakorum) 2/2

Pakistan - North - (Gilgit, Hunza, Karakorum) 2/2

2006-08-25T19:02:00.000-07:00

Polo - tradition from Pakistan - Gilgit

North Pakistan and Hunza Valley. Beautiful areas situated deep in the mountain ranges, where The Himalayas connect with The Karakorum. Right in the middle, running through the main valley is famous "Karakorum Highway" - a road, which has connected Pakistan with China and made possible development of the area. It's more than stunning to ride in between the peaks. Also I believe, that passing under the Nanga Parbat (one of 8.000 meters peaks) is something you will not forget. There are many great mountains, beautiful views, superb sceneries, but there is not many places, where you can admire such a huge mountain standing "close" to you and the difference to its top is more then 6.000 meters!

NORTH PAKISTAN - TREKKING

That is the way to travel - Hunza Valley

Morning frost - Rash Peak trek (5049m)

Glacier views - Rash Peak trek (5049m)-

On the glacier - Rakaposhi base camp trek

Good view - Rash Peak trek (5049m)

Lady Finger - Hunza Valley mountains -

Baltit Fort - Karimabad - Hunza Valley

Minapin Glacier - Rakaposhi in the background

Avalanche - Minapin Glacier -

Relaxing - Minapin Glacier - Rakaposhi (7788m) in the background

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HUNZA VALLEY - NORTH PAKISTAN

Spantik, also called the Golden Peak (7027m)

PASSU/SOST AND KHUNJERAB PASS CROSSING - PART 1

Hitching from Karimabad to Passu with two Germans Alex and Bianca. Short ride on the tractor to Ganesh, then on the top of Pakistan truck (just above the cabin) to Gulmit (the best sightseeing ride ever) and then on a Chinese Mercedes long truck to Passu, where because of the incredible speed (fastest truck ever! with one eye Chinese driver) and not to friendly weather we decided to stay on the truck all the way to China. The driver did not speak any English, but we understood he is going directly to China.

In Sost a border police had ordered us down as it is impossible to pass on the truck to China. The only way is on the government Natco bus (1500RS) to Taskargent. So we have ended up stuck in Sost, where really is nothing to do or see. Weather was not great and I was ready to leave Pakistan. Also I was heading just towards the Passu in the morning, the decision was fast. We bought bus ticket for the next day morning and started to enjoy the Sost.

collecting wood in the mountains - makes them bare :(

Sost - Pakistan border -

We met a guy I knew from Madina in Gilgit and he gave us a free ride around on his jeep. Also offered us some dried apricots. "Pakistan Ramadan" he was laughing and told us about the apple he also has in his car. For some Muslims is difficult not to comply with the religious rules in the community, but they are not so orthodox and always find their personal way around. In the search for a Hunza/Chitral hat for my friend we spoke with many locals and tried to buy their hats. It was great fun and in the end we found almost good one which would fit on the "big headed" German - Alex :) We also met a commander of custom and narcotics department in the evening. It was nice to see him in the morning on the customs. He did very quick check of our luggages and we were free to goo. The story continues in "China 06 South/West".

Khunjerab National Park

Continue your reading here: - "Pakistan - South (Wagah, Lahore, Peshawar) 1/2

India - Amritsar, Golden Temple, ...

2006-08-24T06:13:00.000-07:00

Rickshaw sleeping, Amritsar

Amritsar - The place of Sikhs and the Golden Temple. City itself is rather hot and dusty at this time of the year. The easiest way is to take a cycle rickshaw around. Those incredible guys pedal their small vehicles thought the heat for quite a small amount of money. I always have to admire them and often I feel quite exploiting them. On the other hand, to use their service means to let them to earn money for living. So it is a bit bewitched circle. India - the country of shocking contrasts, poverty & richness - with its mayor religious drive and social closeness.

Anyway, Amritsar seems to be a bit more organized place. This is probably thanks to the Sikhs. They stress more on education and the whole community is very close. City bus station is one of the wonders of India - big, quite clean and numbered, with the destinations written in English & Urdu. Apart from the bus station, the main highlight of the city of course is "The Golden Temple" holly place of Sikhs and a beautiful architectural wonder. Especially when lighted in the night. Sikhs are extremely friendly people and you can sleep in the temple for a free up to three nights. Although some donations are expected.

The Golden Temple inside, Amritsar

Night view - the Golden Temple

They also have one of the biggest kitchens in the world. Every day they cook for more then 10.000 people and this amount doubles over the weekend. The food they provide is basic (chapati, dal, ...), but it is also free. There is no distinction in any way there - anybody is welcome to stay or eat.

There are always many people walking around the lake. In its center is situated the Golden Temple. Sikhs do consider the lake to be full of a "nectar" and they drink, bath, ... in it. In the temple you can find their holly book, which is carried in every morning and out every evening. It spend its night on the shore in one of the surrounding buildings. During the day a recitation from the book is transmitted by an amplifier. It sounds more like a singing rather then reading. For me this is typical example of the Muslim part in the Sikh religion.

The Golden Temple

Washing bowls, the Golden Temple, Amritsar

The Golden Temple is nice and relaxing place. I like to sit near the lake and watch the worshipers passing by.

More articles on India here: - "India - Manali, Vashist, Brighu Lake ..."

THE DALAILAMA and other stories (Dharamsala)

2006-08-13T19:52:00.000-07:00

Today (18-8-06) I had this amusing opportunity to photograph the Dalailama, while he was teaching Dharma in his residence in Mcleod Ganj. I want to thanks all people involved to help me pass through the obstacles and obtain the press pass for this very special occasion. Especially many thanks to "the Argentimes" - independent English newspaper in Argentina!

The Dalailama - teachings - August 14-18 (2006) Mcleod Ganj

PROGRAM OF THE TEACHINGS: Chapter 9 - on the perfection of Wisdom from Shantideva's 'A Guide to the Bodhisattva's Way of Life' (Chodjung), along with the teaching on Gyalsay Thogmay Sangpo's 'The 37 Practises of a Bhodhisattva' (Lak-Len-So-din-ma) and chapters 18, 22, 24 & 26 from Nagarjuna's 'The Fundamentl Wisdom of the Middle Way' (Uma Tsawa Sherab)

What else to say about the Mcleod Ganj (Dharamsala)? Well, all my stay went in the sign of his holiness Dalailama. I have visited the teachings for all five days. My spare time I spent in my favourite Tibetan restaurant called "Tara Cafe". Of course, always remembering my friend Tara, who also enjoys food and who would love it here. And then lots of Internet and photo uploading, so that you can all enjoy now with me. I have also went to see the Karmapa, but this was nowhere near the experience of seeing the Dalailama. Karmapa's personality and public appearance had not really developed yet (hopefully) and there was also too many people in line to get a red string to make this experience something special (at least for me!) And third meeting here was with the Tenzing Palmo - an American women, who had become a nun in her early age and who did 12 years retreat in the cave in Himalayas. She is very interesting person and it was very pleasant to listen her talk. Apart from that, I saw again a movie "Himalaya" which I love and also I managed to see a "Davinci Code". Rest of my time, when it was not raining (still monzun spreading its arms here), I was hanging out with Tibetans.

More articles on India here: - "Varanasi - In the sign of floating SADHU, BABY & PIGLET"

Kashmir - Shrinagar, Dal Lake 1/2

2006-08-06T09:00:00.000-07:00

Skaria carries whatever you can imagine

Kashmir is considered to be a beautiful - some call it "Heaven on the Earth". And yes, it's so different to the in Kashmir then in Ladakh. From a dry and rocky country you come to an amusing greenery. Higher mountains keeps snow all year round and it mix with the green of the grass and trees in summer. There are many trees everywhere and coming from a rocky & dry mountains (which I really love) you just cannot help it and you have to keep staring! It takes a while, before this amusement wears off and your mind rest and eyes starts slowly browsing around.

After arriving to Srinagar (capital of Kashmir) I of course stayed on the houseboat. This I believe is really the must, when you come there. At least for one night. It is so beautiful to be cut of the usual surrounding with all its noise, streets, pollution and also cars, tracks, walking people. You are left with a boats, water, birds and nice views. Sometimes enriched by a passing "shikara" (local small transport boat with a shelter like small roof). They can carry anything you might imagine - from a passengers, to a different load like household things, big gas canisters, vegetables, whole shops from the food to a carpets, .... If you want to go for a ride, you just catch one passing or you use a smaller boat, which every houseboat owner has for use.

My host and his more than a hundred old nargile

It is unforgettable to wake up early in the morning, make a few steps and be on the boat terrace watching the sunrise. Surrounding mountains and its reflection on the water surface just enrich the whole view. This experience followed by a yummy breakfast (local bread with butter, honey, egg vegetable omelet and Kawa) followed by a Nargile (if only they had an Egyptian style tobacco here, it would be absolutely great). What else can you ask for?

I stayed on the Dal Lake - the biggest of them all and situated near the Srinagar main city. Dal Lake itself is 8 km long and 4 km wide. It has three main islands - "Ropa Lank" (silver island), popular "Char Chinari" - with a four Chinar trees and "Sona Lank" (golden island) at the south end. There are around 1.200 houseboats on it with up to 2 -6 double bed rooms including bathrooms, with modern furnishing, dinning rooms, kitchen, terraces. Most of them are decorated by a beautiful carvings made from "deodar wood". There are some normal houses in between the boats built on the small pieces of land, also floating gardens, ....

Locals resting in the Botanical Garden - near Cheshmashahi

The family I have stayed with was living in the small hat built just behind their luxurious houseboat, which they use as a source of income and inhabit it, when the tourists are not about. There was a small peace of land around the hat, but n my time it was under the water due to too much rain in last few days. The hat itself is secured on the poles, high above the water level. Family has seven members - three sons and two daughters (one of them is married). I made a friends with them and usually stayed talking and eating in their house, rather then on the houseboat.

Evening on the Dal Lake - Srinagar - Kashmir

Water merchants - my host and nargile in the morning

Because of the problems in Kashmir and recent killings of some Indian tourists I had the whole houseboat for myself. This mean a luxurious houseboat consisting of two large rooms, kitchen, living room and terrace - in wonderful quiet location of the back gardens with a stunning view on the "Aqua Fort", open water space with houseboat village in distance and surrounding mountains. There were just a few tourist in Kashmir, when I arrived so I paid only a fraction of usual price for such a luxury. For this kind of Supper Deluxe houseboat with a very good view and including food (breakfast, dinner, tea all the time, nargile, ....) you would have to normally look deep in your pocket. Out of season at least 1.000 RS (13 British Pounds) and in the season you start on 1.500 RS or much more per night! Of course, this would not be something likely for my budget, so I was again lucky with the timing :) Thanks to the reasonable price I stayed for a four nights.

To get ashore, you just need to take a local small boat or catch a "shkaria" to take you there. It is normal way of the transport, so you can just hitch any of them passing by. Lakes have their own community, much separated to people living on the land. You can find there everything - floating - wanna shave, see a barber on the boat, also medical services, tailor, various shops, restaurants, phone, internet - whatever you might think of - it is all floating around you.

Continue your reading here: - "Kashmir - Shalimar, Dal Lake, Moughal gardens, 2/2

Kashmir - Shalimar, Dal Lake, Moughal gardens, ... 2/2

2006-08-06T08:02:00.000-07:00

Shalimar garden - water ways

Srinagar and it surrounding has some interesting sights to visit: There is an "Aqua Fort" situated on the steep hill in between the lakes. It creates nice view point from the houseboats, but as it is occupied by the army, it is not possible to visit. In the Mughal times many gardens were built. The most famous are situated around the Dal Lake. Closes to Srinagar is "Cheshmashahi" (Royal Spring - 9 km). On the foothills of Zabarwan mountains, with the famous spring, known for its medical properties. The garden was laid out in 1632 by Ali Mardakhan. Just under it, is a newly built Botanical Garden. It was created by an Indian government for local people to have a place to rest and relax. It is quite big, so everybody has enough space to enjoy a picnic with nargile on Sunday. Above the Cheshmashahi garden - three km up to road is "Pari Mahal" (palace of fairies) - it used to house a school of astrology built by Prince Dhara Shukho, eldest son of Shahjahan, who was interested in observation of stars and Sufism. There are spectacular views on lakes and surrounding mountains. The only spot on the visit is strong army presence and sandbags bunkers build in every corner. Next garden is called "Nishat Bagh" (garden of pleasure - 11 km) and it is a largest of the Mughal gardens, measuring 548 meters. It is followed by "Shalimar Garden" (garden of love - 15km) - built by emperor Jehangir for his wife Nur Jehan in 1616. It has four terraces, with water channels running through its middle. Just above it is a smaller "Harwan Garden" (20km) with a big water reservoir. You can climb up the small hill to enjoy a view on it. Nearby lies trout hatchery and Wild Life Sanctuary, where you are supposed to find the Kashmirs stag "Hangul", black bears, leopards, musk deer, marmots, various birds and unique shrubs and herbs. To get permit for its visit is quite hard - money and time consuming. Also we managed to pass through the most obstacles and entered into the reservation we were stopped by army about 2 km from the entry and even so having all the permits not allowed to continue. Well, that is India. Of course, the money you spent are NOT REFUNDABLE.

Shalimar garden - one of the Moughal gardens around the Dal Lake

There is also famous "Hazratbal Shrine" (10km) which enshrines the holy relic of Prophet Muhamad (Pbuh)". 'Moi-e-muqadas' the sacred hair was brought to India in 1634 by Syyid Abdullah and acquired by Khwaja Noor-ud-Din Ishbari a Kashmiri trader in 1692. It's displayed on some religious occasions during the year. And also "Jamia Masjid" (5km) the oldest mosque founded in 1398 AD by Sultan Sikandar. It is an architectural wonder with 370 wooden pillars supporting the roof.

I made a good friend in Kashmir. He is from Shalimar village, which is about 15 km away from the Srinagar. I have spend some nice time with him and also visited some local places, met with some of his friends and stayed in his house. There I had a lots of very good Kashmiri food.

Trout shopping

Last evening we cooked a dinner with another guy from Austria for our friends family. We got this idea with Uli (Ulrich), when we went to a local trout hatchery. We both eat the trout in the similar way (just cleaned stuffed with garlic and some salt and pepper - in the end sparkled with lemon), so we thought - why not to make a dinner for our hosts instead. It was really interesting for us to just occupy their kitchen and cook the dinner for them as they all very watching our effort. We cooked a 9 rainbow trouts (freshly obtained from the hatchery in the dream price for the western world - 150 RS per KG), with potatoes and lots of salad. Then we served the dinner to all the family and one friend who stayed for dinner too. It seemed to succeed well. And we had all good fun. I have finished the evening by smoking a nargile with Ashik's father.

In general, I find Kashmir very beautiful place with nice people. Though on the other hand, the strong army presence creates many problems. This is not really because of the separatists & militant groups, which for sure do exist! But in many cases because of the army behaviour to the local people and the way how the area of Kashmir is ruled. Most of the local people are really sick of the army and the way, how Indian government deals with them. This opinion is very common between all the levels of the Kashmir nation, from the simple people on the street to a well educated ones.

I must say, although the country is so beautiful and didn't have any direct bad experience there - I still felt under the pressure. Something like not being really secure and all the time expecting something to occur. This was a bit strange.

view from Pari Mahal - the old castle

I think, this was created by the stories I heard around and things which had happened only in one week of my staying. Like: I have learned about the granate blast & open fire on the army jeep on the road to Srinagar, which we passed by bus about half an hour before. Also six Indian tourists were killed not even a three weeks before my arrival in Srinagar. Sometimes I could hear some shooting in the night silence and two days before my departure the army shot to death a young - 22 years old guy - student - without an apparent reason. They left him lying on the side of the road in very inhuman way for quite long time (looked like some kind of trophy). You could see the picture of it in the local newspaper and all the locals were so angry about this, you can not imagine. Army's explanation of the incident was very poor and contradicting. And I am sure, this will cause many further problems in near future. There were already some demonstrations going on from the students and army had reacted by going to a college building later on and beating lots of students very badly there. Looks like no human rights are applied there at all.

Most scary on this all is, that this is happening quite often (as I was told), but nobody outside India really ever hear about it!!!!!

Despite of all this I still like Kashmir and hope to return there in the future for a longer time.

More articles on China here: - "Kashmir - Shrinagar, Dal Lake 1/2"

Travel Magic - Gallery - China

2006-06-21T18:29:00.000-07:00

China Travel Image Gallery - quick preview

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traditional Sichuan opera

Grand Buddha statue in the cliff - Lesham

Giant Pandas playing - Chengdu

fruit trolley - old Kashgar - Uighur granpa

traditional metal work - Uighur crafts

Karakul Lake - jurta - house of nomads

LADAKH - Kingdom of Buddha (Leh, Nubra, Tso Kar, ...)

2006-06-13T11:07:00.000-07:00

Ladakh! What to say? For me it is a beautiful place with friendly people, stunning mountains, amusing view and treks, buddhist culture with many monks and gompas, yummy food, ...

Stok range mountains. Tradition meets new technology :)

All together making a place, which for me feels almost like a home. So familiar, so nice and friendly. It is not hard to stay, it is hard to leave. More then two months of my wondering around this part of the world were not really enough and passed rather too fast. Never the less - in the high season there are too many tourists and especially the Leh city turns to a bit hectic place. It is a difficult to make my favorites - but certainly the Nubra Valleys and around the Lakes Tso Moriri and Tso Kar are the most vivid in my memory.

LADAKH HAPPENINGS IN SHORT:

* Leh and surrounding
* many monasteries - Alchi, Likir, Tiksey, Shey, Hemis, Diskit, ....
* Buddhist festivals (Hemis gompa)
* climbing on Stok Kangri (6132m) and Mentok1 (6293)
* trekking around the mountains
* around the lakes Tso Kar (salty one) and Tso Moriri
* Nubra Valley (a beautiful restricted permit area)
* Drinking "Chang" (local beer) with locals
* Cycling Khardung La (5602m)
* riding zanskar horse
* eating "tsampa" and drinking butter tea and many other really nice things
* .....

The road from Manali done by a government bus takes two days and there is a stopover in Keylong - a smaller city in the mountains. There I met very friendly Nepali people and stayed for only 25 RS a night. Here I also drunk my first "Chang" a locally brewed beer and stayed talking until late. The road to Leh goes over a gorgeous mountains with some high passes. The highest one "Taglung La" is 5328 meters. Many people experience altitude problems on the way, but in my case, this was never an issue. You can also take a jeep, which would cost you more then a double of the bus (1200 RS/ bus 525 RS), but it takes only around 22 hours. The most enjoyable are the stops on the way in the local "Dhaba's" - tea tents, where I found the food to be really nice and tea is also much appreciated.

Everybody enjoys the bike on the top of the world (Khardung La - 5602m)

Khardung La - 5602 meters - one of the highest mortal roads in the world

KHARDUNG LA - The highest mortal road in India and the third highest mortal road in the world. It is said, there is one higher pass in Tibet and the highest one is supposed to be in Bolivia. So how to enjoy this special place? Of course on the mountain bike! :)))) The official altitude reaches 5602 meters and you can see some snow around even in the mid summer. My GPS was slightly less generous, with only stating 5412 meters, but it is still very good challenge anyway. The road is around 40 km long from Leh ( 3.500m) and the altitude difference is over 2.000 meters. First part has got nice coating by a asphalt, but the second part is unsoiled, with many streams running over it. I must say, especially the way down is an unforgettable experience. Going down was really fast and only stops for a beautiful view and to take a photo interrupted my ride. It took me less then 30 minutes to make the top part of the road (the unsoiled part). It was the only time, when even a jeeps (usually fast going) were letting me go, when I was stepping on their backs for a while. The second one on the asphalt was not as interesting, but still pretty good long ride. If you ever get to this area - highly recommended. You can find quite good mountain bike in Leh to rent, just near the "Main bazaar street" and the owner is really nice. He was really exited about my trip and he customised the bike for me as much as he thought is possible. After meeting with more Czech people in Leh, they followed my recommendation and all together made it as a "Czech ride".

Children in Leh

CLIMBING OVER 6.000 METERS

Sunrise - Stok Kangri summit 6132m

Stok Kangri summit - 6132 meters

view on Stok Kangri (6132m) from my vindow in Upper Changspa

And yet, one mountain over the six thousand meters was not enough. There are several beautiful mountains around the Tso Moriri lake. The landscape is beautiful - wast planes, snowy mountains, lakes. This part of the Ladakh geologically belongs to the Tibetan plateau and it is a bit different to rest of the Ladakh. You don't meet too many tourists in those areas. Mainly because its remoteness and high altitude and also to get there, you need to apply for a special permit for the restricted areas in Leh (valid up to 7 days).

I have come there with a couple of friends and of course, part of our plan was to climb another mountain there. We arrived to a small village Korzong on the shore of the Tso Moriri lake (Tso means lake), where we stayed for two nights. Part of our group had needed more acclimatisation as the Korzong itself is already in 4.600 meters. Then we left up to the mountains to climb one of the Mentoks. Mentok 1 is higher and it is considered to be a technical climb. Mentok 2 should be approachable as a trekking peak. Our aim was Mentok 2. Also it is considered trekking peak like the Stok Kangri - high altitude makes it not easy task and there is usually snow/glaciers on the top, so crampons and ice axes are worthy part of the equipment. It was quite difficult to learn from the locals, which peak is which and even with one of the best maps you can get here we were still in doubt. In the end we just decided, which mountain we will try. And for me it happened to climb a Mentok 1 as a solo climb.

Mentok 1 - 6293 meters - view on the summit

Mentok 1 - summit - 6293 meters

WITH A NOMADS IN THE MOUNTAINS

Yak, Yak, Yak - Ladakh (from High Altitude Trekking) over 5.000m

Camping with the nomads

Nomads in the mountains

In the nomad's tent

On the pass - ... La - near Tso Moriri - Ladakh

Waiting - Korzong - Ladakh

Tso Kar Lake - Ladakh

Tso Moriri Lake - Glacier edge

IN THE BUDDHA LAND

Likir Monastery - Ladakh

Alchi monastery - making tea "chai" - Ladakh

In the mountains

Young monks enjoying the view Alchi monastery - Ladakh

Diskit Monastery - Nubra Valley - Ladakh

view from the Diskit Monastery - Nubra Valley - Ladakh

Stakna monastery series

Stakna monastery - offerings ceremony

LEH AND SURROUNDING

How to operate the shovel - series Leh

Prayer - part of the life

Leh views - 1

view from the Leh gompa

Leh palace and old gompa in the background

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India - Manali, Vashist, Brighu Lake ...

2006-05-31T19:58:00.000-07:00

Following the path of the holy river Ganges up the cities of Haridwar, Rishikes, back to the Delhi to pick up all my stuff and huray to the mountains - Manali (Vashist). I have spent here quite some time. Vashist is nice place, much better then New or Old Manali. Although it gets really busy during the day by mainly Indian tourists, who are visiting the Rama temple and hot springs. The water is really hot and I must say in those temperatures now (June) is not even tempting to have a swim. But it is perfect for the washing clothes. The village itself is combination of the tourist shops, guest houses, restaurants and ordinary life of local people. You can still find here some traditional wooden houses with stone roofs, but many new ones are being build and they are very much changing the village style.

Vashist - village life, harvest

Mountain views from Vashist are spectacular. You can watch high mountains while having tasty meal in one of the local restaurants or enjoy the sunset while sipping some "chai" in another one.

Manali - surrounding mountains
If you want to see a bit more authentic lifestyle, you do not have to go too far. It is amusing, how quickly the tourist influance change when you walk into a villages just a few kilometres away. I must say I really liked the little mountain village called something like "Madzhad". It is situated in the mountain and there is no road going there. That means everything has to be brought on peoples back or horses. It has 50 houses (most of them traditional) and should live there about 350 inhabitans. Yes, quite a lot for just a 50 houses, but the family structure here is much stronger and usually many generations still share one house together. There is also one shop in there. It has everything in it, but it is being open just by a demand and I think mainly in the evening.

Kids in local mountain village - "Madzhad"

The mountain above the village reaches up to 3.000 meters, but later continues towards higher peaks. There is old forest on the top and you can see a "Solang Valley" - famous place for paragliding from its top. Also many herds of cattle or horses are grazing on its slopes.

Men in the mountains looking after the herd of a cattle

If you staying longer in this place, there is nice trek to Bhrigu Lake (4.200 meters). It starts just above the Vashist and it just goes up, up and up. Vashist itself is in 2.100 meters. Locals would probably recommend you a 3 days trip with cook and porter. This is a good idea, if you want to take it really slowly and enjoy staying in the mountains. You can also do it in one day, if you feel for a hard trek. I have packed my big bag and left on my own to explore the place. I must say I had enough in 3.500 meters, so I left my bag with a nice men there in the perfect place to camp. He was actually a cook for a little expedition of two Austrian people. They went with porter and guide up the lake and the cook was looking after the things. We had some tea and nice chat, so I left just with my camera to finnish my climb and to return the same day back and camp with them over the night. What a nice people - all of them. We shared food and stories around the bonfire late in the night.

Bhrigu Lake - 4.200 meters

Once you get all the way to the lake, it is definitely worth it to climb those extra 100 meters for a view from the Bhrigu peak. The scenery itself is stunning. You can see 360 degrees panorama of high mountains. The highest of them are reaching 7.000 meters.

Bhrigu Peak - 4.307 meters

Walking around can bring many nice suprises, like a few woman sweeping forest for getting the stuff (needles like) from pine trees for their cows for winter to lay on. And then carrying it down to the village in typical baskets.

Women in the forest - Vashist

More articles on India here: - "Varanasi - In the sign of floating SADHU, BABY & PIGLET"

India - Haridwar, Rishikes -> Manali

2006-05-24T19:59:00.000-07:00

A masive statue of Shiva in Haridwar

Taking a slow train from the Varanasi, I have arrived to the Haridwar. The journey took 23 hours, but that is nothing in India. You will get use to different measures of time-travel. 7 a.m. - good time - I like to arrive at this time to a new place. It gives me an opportunity not to search for a place to stay immediately (if I have just my small bag :) and also this time in the morning "touts" seems to be still sleeping. I love to see a new place to slowly wake up and get to its daily routine.

Not being sure to stay for the night in Haridwar I went around to explore the place. River Ganga was the best to start with, of course. After spending longer time on one of the bridges and admiring the surrounding I run into a "Naga Baba" - a holly men (sadhu) I met few days ago in Varanasi and spend a pleasant 2 hours chatting with. I knew, he is travelling around and would be going this direction, but the timing was excellent. He was happy to see me too and I got invited to sit down with him and three other Babas. The life on the river bank was slowly starting to buzz and soon I felt like a priviledged guest sitting down with the Babas and sipping the tea they offered. One of the "chellos" brought it for them and sat aside. Also some local guys tried to sitdown next to me, but were shushed away by the Babas. You have to be invited to do so, otherwise they can get very insisting for you to leave. Later I learned some foreigners spent some time with them just to get some "smoke" and paid for it quite a bit ;) I sat with them for an hour or so, we talked a bit, several "chillims" (filled with ganja) passed around and few more Babas came.

Sahdus - Babas smoking weed from "chilham" on the bank of Ganges in Haridwar

Then I departed to continue my exploration of the Haridwar itself. Nice place, but a bit big and by the midday it got so crowded! Not really by the foreigners, but mainly by an Indian tourist who this time a year travel up to the mountains to escape the heat. They visit all the north places, like Dharmasala, Shimla, Manali and also holy places like Haridwar, Rishikes, Gangotri, ... Many of them are visiting families living in the north, so you can find many Indian tourist virtually almost anywhere. By then I knew, I will go straight to Rishikes and stay there.

RISHIKES - Definitely an easy going place. Surrounded by the hills with reasonebly clean river Ganga in its heart and offering anything the traveller might need for a longer stay. Well, might be there are too many tourist there, especially Indian, because of the summer migration to the mountains. Otherwise, it is a holly place where you can find reatreat in meditation, yoga or many oter activities like rafting, jeep safari, trecking. Some people do find lots to smoke quite enough to leave here their happy life. It is also a gateway for going up to the mountain centers such as Gangotri, ...

Sleeping :) - gime shout, if you need something

Some Babas relaxing on the river bank

Of course I was not much surprised to ran into the Naga Baba later in the afternoon. He mentioned to stay in Rishikes for a week or so and Haridwar was just visit on the way. His name is "Manbadi Naga Baba" (Naga means snake). He is 42 years old and devoted his life to ceasing the "Karma" and becoming the sadhu for 29 years. Usually he stays a half year in the ashram and half year he travels around the India. He also visited the Nepal in the past. Thanks to his quite good English was our communication very easy as my Hindi is not going anywhere. I spent in Rishikes several days, relaxing and enjoying a bit cooler weather. I managed to read a lot (Piano Tuner, The city of Joy, Life of Marpa the translator (buddhist mythology), ...), meet with Babas - especially the Naga Baba, take some pictures and of course eat a lots of good food. Also I was extremely lucky to become a "ginea pig" for my friend's practise of Aurevedic Massage.

More articles on India here: - "India - Manali, Vashist, Brighu Lake ..."

India - In the sign of floating SADHU, BABY & PIGLET (Varanasi)

2006-05-18T20:01:00.000-07:00

Sunrise on the Ganges river - Varanasi

Magical sunrise in Varanasi was the price for 14 hours journey by bus from Khajuraho. It was comfy government bus with proper seats, but still 14 hours is 14 hours. I got in just in time to get down to the ghats and get a boat to see a sun rising above the river. Absolutely spectacular meeting with the holy city.

My boat headed towards the sun reflecting in the Ganga, alongside temples and bathing ghats. Soon we reached the Manikarnika burning ghat. One of two, where the bodies gets burned in Varanasi. The other one use electric, but Manikarnika is old wooden burning. Ritual surviving ages. The view of sun across the river and burning ghat on the other side were very impressive. This ghat operates 24 hours a day and it burn each body for three hours. In average, 50 - 70 bodies a day are processed here. Body itself is first bathed in the holy river and then it goes on the wooden file. It cost around 5.000 RUP (minimum), but goes 10.000, 15.000 easily, to get burn in the traditional way. They use 4 kinds of wood - Santal, ... What reminds goes to the river - abdomen for women and chest for men don't burn completely. Also ashes, some bones, ... There are 6 exceptions where the burning is not allowed. In this case the body goes directly to heaven - it is thrown as it is, with stone to sink, to the river to dispose. There is a constant fire burning on the ghat (comes directly from Shiva), which is here for lighting the bodies. There are no matches or lighters used. This holy fire is considered to be descended from Shiva and burn constantly in the past 7.000 years.

1. Sadhu
2. Pregnant Mother
3. Baby (gets wrapped in the red cloth)
4. Person bit by a cobra snake (symbol of Shiva)
5. Person suffering the "lepra" disease
6. Animal

On the way back I rowed the boat and my boatsmen took me to see more. There was a biggish patch of stuff gathered in the quiet part of the river (picture under - taken later from distance).

FLOATING SADHU, BABY AND PIGLET - that's my introduction to a mystery world of the spiritual life here. While rowing the boat the old corpse of Sadhu has appeared. You can still see part of the orange sari wrapped around the rotting body. Soon after a small package appeared, wrapped in red cloth - "that is baby" commented my boatmen. Final step took well preserved piglet. It was so swollen it floated on the top as a balloon.

Shocking? Normal?
Part of the culture?

What would YOU say?

For me - it's rather sad to see anything thrown into the river, where many people bath, drink water, live nearby, ... Though I myself am much to pragmatic. I do not find dead upsetting. It makes me remember inevitable part of the life. Indian people has definitely much different approach, but for as "modern people" it is something we are not use to, we are too scared off.

One would say, river Ganges is so dirty. Could be, but considering what actually goes in it - and this mean everything - I find it surprisingly clean. Ganga, holy mother, life and death together. How many lives and deaths you have already seen. This city is considered to be thousands years old - the oldest city in the world.

"GANGA NAMAM KY DJEJ"
(mother Ganga - mantra)

What floats here? Everything you can/cannot imagine!

views on Ganges river - Varanasi

Varanasi is a lovely place. It would be easy for me to stay here very long, but I am getting myself to move around the India, to see more places and one day may be return for longer to my favourite ones. I will leave for the Haridwar tomorrow morning, after staying in Varansi for 5 nights. Highly recommended "Ganpathi Guest House" situated near the Main Ghat. You can get there easily walking from Dasaswameth Ghat (main ghat) towards the Manikarnika Ghat (burning ghat). People there are very friendly and it has a great view on the river, huge rooms, restaurant and it is so close to everywhere. I will also remember this city for its sweets. I have tried a plenty of them here and I have to say: "It is hardly anything better than a big glass of milky tea with biscuits or sweets on the terrace of the Ganpati guest house, watching the Ganga underneath!"

Manikarnika Ghat - Holy burning ghat on the Ganga

Manikarnika Ghat is my favourite place. I can seat there for hours watching "the reality of life". Yes, Maya dies at Manikarnika and Ganga is the mother of new life. Fire and water here together create a perfect harmony.

Every evening a big puja is held on the Dasaswameth Ghat after 7 p.m. Many other small pujas are also held along the river through the whole city.

Varanasi - evening Puja on the Ganga

More articles on India here: - "India - Agra (Taj Mahal), Jhansi, Khajuraho,..."

India - Agra (Taj Mahal), Jhansi, Khajuraho,

2006-05-13T20:01:00.000-07:00

life on the river Ganges - Agra

Another few days passed and I have moved around a bit again. I left Pushkar towards Agra to see the great world wonder of Taj Palace. I didn't intended to go inside, as I heard the price was very high. And so it was - 750 RUP. I know, if you get it in western currency, it does not seem so high, but it is hell lots of money for India. They have strong security measures for the Taj. Looks like, they are very afraid someone would blow it up. You can't take even lighter inside and all the bags, ... has to be stored away, before you enter. I arrived early in the morning, got a motor rickshaw for a whole day to make my day here simpler (120 RUP). I did not intended to stay over the night, that is why this arrangement. I got to see Taj soon after the sunrise and one of the guides around showed me nice way around the wall towards the river. So I have explored the palace from around and it is quite interesting to see it from under the walls. I shot a few pictures of the people around the river. The life around the Taj in the morning is very interesting. There are also lots of monkeys on one side. I peeped inside through the gate inside of the bazaar, where nobody comes in. I am sure, I did not missed anything not to go inside. Than I got my rickshaw to take me over the river to see the Taj from the other side. I heard the view was spectacular. And it was. I have played freesby with the kids on the bank for a while and watched the local life, before going to see a "baby Taj" and having a tea in the bazaar. Other side of the river represents normal life and it is not mapped in my LP book. I guess they are trying to say - "Nothing interesting for the tourist". Really? I found it much nicer than the side of Taj, so commercial, so tourist hungry. From there to see the Red Fort, an enormous building situated about 2km from the Taj itself. Most of the building is used for the military purposes and only small part for a tourist. Still, good place to see. There is a promenade with park near Taj, leading towards the Red Fort. Cycling rickshaw will take you for 10 RUP, if you get lazy to walk in the heat. Well, now is more than 45 degrees of Celsius here (NOW IS MID OF MAY). For me it means real summer. You know my friends, I always say, over 40 degrees on the desert is what I imagine like a summer time.

Kids on the river bank - Agra - Taj Mahal

I spent most of the day discovering Agra and in the end I got fed up to be with rickshaw too much and listen of nice Mughal (shops and shops) city. He was honest with the commission (2% if I buy, some petrol if I don't), but I hate such a waist of the time. I did it for his fuel once and went to see a wonders of the rich tourist shopping. Huge house full of overpriced - "special art" - you can also buy on the bazaar for a ten's of the price. It was not to bad though. I had a good chat with the Indian girl there, looking on the jewelery and finding out more about the life in India. She is 26 and not married yet (quite late for a woman here). Her name was Ili, which supposed to be a more personal name of the goddess Kali. She said, not married yet, nobody wants me, I am not beautiful. Ha, ha, ha - she was quite pretty, but I guess high positioned and educated. That is always harder to find a suitable men. She also would like to marry for love if possible. That is maybe 5% of the whole India marriage and mainly in the cities. Otherwise the cast system here is very strong. I cannot really see it, but I am reminded of it by the people all the time. I find it strange, but I do understand that it is deeply written in the structure of the country, religion, education and often even in the peoples harts.

A boy fishing in the almost dried lake in Khajuraho

I left Agra on the evening train to Jhansi, something like 3.5 hours away south. I did not have a proper ticket, just unreserved basic fare. Kinda learning by experience. I was told. Reservations not possible and lots of other bulshit. I was not in mood to be finding hard about it so I thought. I will make it, no problem. If the worst come, 3 hours is nothing. I got on the train to sleeper part, second class, well where I was supposed to be, but finding about the system I found it hard to get some seat. People seemed to tray to not to accept the foreigner who was unsure of what to do. So I got to nice high class, air conditioned for a while and waited for conductor. When he come, I made my way back. He said, upgrade possible. First class 250 RUP and for the sleeper reserved 70 RUP, so I made my way. The other one did not wanted to do any upgrades just for 70 RUP, so I pressed him to find me a place. The rest of the way I spend quite comfortably chatting with two boys from Jhansi. I have arrived there quite late and tried some places from LP. Sometimes I thing, the book is written for the middle class travelers, who wants adventure, but still pay lots of money of the comfort. I know, it is just some places, but especially here in India the budged options are mostly overpriced places, who are gaining money on being in the book. Anyway, Jhansi is too expensive with only a few hotels and I had to pay lots of money for a few hours sleep. Though cutting the price almost 40%!

Well, not much interest in Jhansi, so I took early morning bus to Khajuraho. The way take something around the 5 hours, depending on the bus. Departures 5.30, 6.00, 7.00 and 11.30 from the train station. Mine took six hours in the end and broke twice on the way. Not so bad as they managed to repair it quite quickly.

Isn't she sexy? Just 3.000 years old :)

Khajuraho (chadzraho) is smallish hot town with amusing temples. Most of them dates from 950 to 1050 AD, build in Chandelas period. They are covered with many carvings and statues. There are several theories for the symbolic of the statures - most people nowadays like the idea of the "Kamasutra" teaching and preserving the knowledge of different positions. Who knows. But the true is that the statues are amusing. I have also found fascinating, how precise are all the proportions and how detailed carvings are. You can find the pointy nipples on women breasts, ... Most of the temples are dedicated to the Shiva's lingham, but there are also Jain temples with the Buddha. The most famous is the Jain temple in the East part, where in the center is Buddha siting in lotus position and a big cobra rises above his head. In the morning sun shines directly on the statue.

poisonous lizard hiding in the shop shutter

Khajuraho itself is quite small place. It is surrounded by a two lakes. In the hottest time (May, June) is very hot and dry. There are many shops lurking tourist leaving their money there. I myself found very interesting nearby villages, which virtually starts, where the main city ends. People live there in quite simple houses, huts or shelters. You can see very little money around there. It is a long way to get there. Either bus from Jhansi - around 5 hours or bus from Satna (closest train station) - around 4 hours. There is also a government run bus to Varanasi daily. It takes 14 hours and departs at 15:00 (Varanasi 4.30 a.m.). It is quite comfortable and you have even your seat reserved. This is important, so you don't have to fight about your seat and there will not be another 3 people trying to squeeze with you there. I found it a perfect way for transport to Varanasi, as you arrive for a sunrise and also you have a whole day to look around.

famous carvings - by many taken for "Kamasutra"

More articles on India here: - "Varanasi - In the sign of floating SADHU, BABY & PIGLET"

INDIA - PUSHKAR - holy lake, Brahma, Rajastan, ...

2006-05-09T20:10:00.000-07:00

hill view - near the Pushkar lake

So I am online again. Playing with the photos to find out how easy it will be for me to get some of them online. Well, looks like very dificult. I have to shoot some of them specially in JPG if I want to get them online, otherwise I would have to do two conversions from RAFF (big file format :))

I will be leaving for Agra tonight. Pushkar was nice, small place. Really touristy orientated. At the moment it is low season, so there is not many tourist at all. Holy lake is surrounded by the bathing ghats with many temples and interesting buildings. Some of them used to be a hotels, but now all the inner circuit hotels are closed for religious reasons. Goverment did not liked tourist taking pictures from hotel balkonies and also tourist siting above pilgrims vere disturbing for many of them. Inner circuit is surrounded by a bazar, which is really tourist oriented. You can get here everything. In the top corner of the lake is Brahma temple, very unique one. It is supposed to be only a few of them in the world dedicated to this devine. It is said Brahma himself choosed this lake for his holy place. The most amusing thing on the lake is the fish living in its waters. Although it is not possible to see them whole they look masive. I guess life of fish in holy lake eating holy food is not bad after all.

Good view on the lake and city itself is from nearby steep hill, with a small temple on its top. The best time is to go there for a sun rise, otherwise it is too hot. One evening I went out of the city on the dusty road. It is amusing to see, how different it looks out of the city. So grean, with trees and grass in the middle of the desert. We met interesting man on the way, who was just going to the city to sell some kind of fruit. I do not remember its name, but it looks like small cherry with the stone inside. The taste is diferent though, quite refreshing. He has invited us to see the nearby farm and trees, where the fruit grows. He spoke good English, because he is in tourist business for about 20 years. Usually he does Camel Safaris, but not is no business for two months of the heat, so he is selling that fruit. Should be quite expensive. He has a family living on the farm, watering the trees. They are there for one year lease and then can stay if they like it another year or go. He seems quite nice employer. We went to see them and had the best milky tea so far. It was made on the wood fire, with proper assam tea and fresh milk from the goat. The most surprising were the lovely green cups he has served it in. Family is of five members and the kids were 5 (boy), 3 (girl), 1 (girl). The oldest one was so helpful to his mum. He was bringing water for the tea and other things. Completely different life to European kids. They are so lucky to just play all day, .... Well, you might ask why I say we? It was me and two Swedish girls I met in the morning.

More articles on India here: - "Varanasi - In the sign of floating SADHU, BABY & PIGLET"

India - THE BEGINNING - Delhi, Mombay

2006-05-06T20:16:00.000-07:00

views on old Delhi from the mosque - Jama Masjid

Beginning? Yes, that is how I would call it. I am in India now as I planned it for some time. About a week later than I expected, but I have arrived to Delhi, where I am spending my third day. My air ticket was quite cheap so I was expecting some dodgy airplane or so. It was even better then my dreams. Flight was canceled last minute and of course, people around the Heathrow are not very helpful. Instead of having relaxing time sipping bad English cappuccino and chatting on the phone to friends, I was running between terminals (twice train journey included) for two hours. In the end I got on Jet Airlines flight to Mombay, where the rest of the ticket should have been sorted. Once on the plain, it was all good. Good seat, nice vegetarian food and I had a few glasses of nice Australian red wine to chill out. Then I watched some movies. You are right Tara, "Memoirs of the Geisha" are nothing special. Though I really liked the part as she was dancing on those high shoes.

Well, change over in Mombay was ok, with some confusions and considerable time extension. I got to Delhi almost at sunset and once the Airport bus got me close to my hotel, it was completely dark. How I hate to arrive to new country at night and look for a place to stay. I wondered around for ten minutes or so and then I caught cycle-rickshaw. In the end it cost only 20 RUP (from 50 wanted) to comfortably pass through the bazaars and see the life for a while. I got my place in the "Down Town Hotel", really nice with shower, toilet (all in marble), double bed and air-con for 170 RUP/night. I thing good deal. OK, enough about the prices. Just wanted to give you some inside about the costs.

I took my time here very gently. Lots of sleep, wondering around. It is around 45 degrees here during the day - hot and dry - and the nights are sticky hot too. I went to see the Red Fort and Jama Masjid, both build by a Mughal king some 400 years ago. Very monumental buildings. There are many great bazaars around this area. Chandi Chowk, Old Delhi railway station, Main bazaar near New Delhi railway station. Food is good and tea mainly with milk. Today I went to search for a real Darjeeling tea in some coffee place, but did not find any. In the end I bought some loose one, which I am going to try to consume very soon. Tomorrow I am leaving for Ajmer - Pushkar holy lake.

You will have to wait for a photos for a while. It is too difficult at the moment to upload them. Also I did not take any so far. Just don't feel like it. Especially to use my digital camera, when I see so poor people around. That is it for the now, if you want to know, what is happening, check out this website once in the while. I am going to remind you about the updates sometimes, but not always ;)

More articles on India here: - "India - Amritsar, Golden Temple, ..."

Egypt

2005-08-20T11:56:00.000-07:00

When you say Egypt, most of us imagine pyramids.
Yes, of course, that's a right association. But there is more!

Things that 'rocks':
* arrive to Pyramids early morning, before the crowds
* smoke 'shisha' (arabic water pipe) in the streets of the Cairo bazaar
* visit Karnak temple just before the sunset (and come again another time)
* have a faluca ride on the Nile out of Luxor
* spend a few days in the desert oasis Dahla, Farafra, .... with locals
* snorkel/dive in Dahab on the Red Sea

Sure, there is lot more to do. Temples of the Abu Simbel near the Sudan borders.
Philae temple on the way there. Fabulous, but the crowds are thick. Valley of the
Kings. Bike there or walk through the mountains connecting it with Valley of Queens.
Walk in the dark up the Mt. Sinai to see fabulous sunrise above the reddish mountains.
Visit Coptic Cairo with it's traditional orthodox community and the list can go on.

Norway - Folgefonna Glacier (Oda)

2005-03-08T04:24:00.000-08:00

Winter climb on the Folgefonna Glacier in Norway fjords above town of Oda.

WINTER CLIMB ON VOLCANO ETNA - December 2004

2004-12-16T20:20:00.000-08:00

Across the Alps - flying to Sicily

To climb volcano Etna was something I wanted to do for a long time. I was closely watching flights to Sicily for a few months and then I finally got nice deal from Ryanair. Sicily in winter is not very touristy, though the weather is quite mild in the sea level. There were lots of big storms around the time of my arrival, which meant lots of fresh snow on the top of the Enta.

It was difficult to get transport out from Catania, because the connecting bus to the Refugio Sapienza just didn't came. People in Sicily are very relaxed about the services, like all the Italians. They said something like "it is too much snow up there, so the bus is not going". Several local people were not very happy about it either, though it did not surprised them so much. They just went to the nearby ticket office and refunded their fare. In the end me and four other foreigners, who were waiting for the bus, had to do the same. Later on that day, I got another bus to the closest village, which is still about 17 km from Refugio Sapienza. The other foreigners had joined me and we were all hoping to get a taxi or hire a car for the last part. Unfortunately, there was no taxi service there and nobody wanted to earn extra few euros to give us a half an hour ride. I have left my company here and finally headed towards the mountain on my own feet. Luckily I hitched a car few kilometers after the village. It was one men working in the hotel in Refugio Sapienza, so he gave me a lift all the way up there. He also gave me lots of useful information about the volcano itself and the current conditions.

Refugio Sapienza

Refugio Sapienza consist of a few hotels and cafe's situated in the beginning of the cable car (Not working at the time of my visit. It was hit by an lava about a half-year before my arrival). The cable car would take you only above 2000 m.n.m and rest is up to everybody himself or herself. I have arrived to the end of the cable car in the mid afternoon and met here last two people in this altitude on the volcano - mountain guides, who were trying to pull out a truck from the snow to get it down to the Refugio Sapienza. They were surprised to see me there and gave me well-meant warnings.

"Still hot" - even near the cable car station

From the end of the cable car, there was a no path or even footprint, just a lot of fresh snow. The weather was good, but it was changing. In a few hours I got up to about 2700 m.n.m., where I had to stay over the night. Since my departure from the end of the cable car, the weather conditions have changed dramatically. It was not sunny any more, but the volcano was hidden into the thick mist and strengthening wind brought a heavy snowfall. For a while I was finding my way up only thanks to the marking poles and sometimes I had to wait for a few minutes to see in which direction is the next one. I did not wanted to give up so easily and tried to reach higher altitude. Finally the darkness has started to fall and I had quite enough, so I made my camp for the night.

Snowy views - from the way to the top
I pitched up my tent next to the marking pole, secured it with a smaller snow wall and made myself comfortable inside. I hear you laughing! “Comfortable”! But all of you, who has already done it know, that it is a great pleasure to get inside the tent, take your shoes off and crawl into your sleeping bag. The temperature dropped down to something like minus 15 degrees of Celsius. I ate some food, nicely warmed up and made myself comfortable for the night. In about an hour later I realized that there is a bit too much light on the side of my tent. It got me quite worried, where it could come from and also lots of strange noise was not very convincing. I crawled out of my tent to find out what is going on. The weather has cleared for a few minutes and fist thing I could see was an amusing sky, so full of stars I have hardly seen before. And down, on the foothill, lights of the Catania city. Peaks of the surrounding volcanoes were lit in the moonlight. It was truly beautiful view. And then I looked over my tent and .... yes,

My house, my castle, ...

there was this stunning view of river of vivid red light and smoke running just a few hundred meters away, across the mountain edge parallel with my tent. This scary and beautiful river of lava was making its way down the mountain. Now I fully understood the occasional noise I noticed in last few hours and also the smell, which I was associating with the smoke going out from some of the side craters. Here I was watching powers of the mother earth and thinking: “What the hell should I do in this situation”?

Main Crater (Mt. Etna - volcano)

I did not take any pictures, so you can only imagine. Reason? There are moments in my life, when I refuse to use camera and I take a picture just for myself - into my mind. Those are pictures I remember for rest of my life.

Almost summit - near the main crater "hell"

There was no sense to leave, as I was not entirely sure, if there is any safer place to go at that moment. And also it already was night and temperature was not friendly for taking a long walk. I have packed small emergency bag and planned my escape way to the nearest non-active looking crater. I can ensure you, it was a long night, although I tried to sleep. There were two more eruptions during the night. But it was just more magma flowing in the same river as before. In the morning I seriously considered descend. It was still heavily snowing and clouds together with the mist made it almost impossible to see around. But after having a breakfast and packing my tent, it has slowly started to clear.

Torre Del Philosofo

I have decided to wait for a bit and my patience was appraised by a blue sky and sunshine. I have completed my climb a few hours later and enjoyed some beautiful views from the top of the volcano. There was no more lava flowing down on the surface. Just quite lot of smoke was spreading above its cooling lid. I descended to Refugio Sapienza in the afternoon. Here I met a French couple, which was camping nearby Catania that night. They have told me about the huge river of lava they watched that night on the mountain. I could only smile - yes I know, I was camping a few hundred meters away :)

One of the active side craters

Main Crater - view from a distance

That evening I took bus back to Palermo and stayed in the most beautiful old-fashioned hotel there. The old hotelier has recommended me a nice traditional pizzeria and I enjoyed the best pizza and vine in my life.

Palermo streets at night

Amazing Travel Info

Syria

2004-07-05T04:40:00.000-07:00

Through the Syria country. Place of an ancient history, cradle of civilizations, beautiful ruins hidden in the desert, islamic town of Allepo dating back 5.000 years and competing in it's age with the Damascus, who claims the same age of the first human establishments. But most of all, fantastic people living there nowadays. Syria is one of my favorite countries and the Allepo bazaar is a superb mixture of images (I believe) almost not changed since the first merchants had come to this area.....

Turkey

2004-06-03T04:56:00.000-07:00

Istanbul, Selcuk, Kas, Kapadokia, Pamukale, .....

France - Paris

2001-02-22T11:43:00.000-08:00

A few old timer photos from the winter Paris. It's been a while since my visit, but I still remember it well. I've seen so much in a short time. It was time, when I was trying to get the maximum. I must be getting older now, but I love to see less and soak the atmosphere of the place more. (published memoir - 09)

Paris is fantastic place, full of history atmosphere, happenings. On the other hand, it's also very expensive, especially in the center, around the river and main attractions. It can be pretty snobbish and unfriendly too. My favorite places were absolutely around the Sacre Coeur, Monmartre, Moulin Rouge, where the normal people live, mixed with artists, some tourist attractions, little local cafe's, boulangeries .....

Arc De Triumphe Etoile (Triumph Arch)

Eiffel Tour (Eiffel Tower from Trocadero)

Pompidou Centre

Sainte Chapelle (Saint Chapel)